Cultural & Historical Tourism in Botswana

Experience the stunning beauty, the unimaginable vastness, the isolation and other-worldiness, the astoundingly prolific wildlife of the best kept African secret – Botswana.

Oodi Weavers
The Lentswe-la-Oodi Weavers is a Swedish-initiated cooperative (1973) situated in Oodi village, approximately 20 kms north of Gaborone, on the Francistown Road. The weavers – mostly women who now fully own the cooperative – produce handwoven wall hangings, tapestries, runners, napkins, cushion covers, jackets, and bedspreads, all designed by the weavers themselves. The wool is hand-woven and hand-dyed. Most designs depict rural scenes, animals or geometric patterns.

Interested customers can order originally designed pieces. Visitors are encouraged to browse the factory, and the adjacent shop.

Selebi-Phikwe
Commonly known as Phikwe, this mining town is best known for its copper-nickel mine which provides much of the employment in the area. Initially established to accommodate and service the employees of the mine (Bamangwato Concessions Ltd.) that began operations in 1973.

Copper-nickel ore is extracted from shafts in deep, open cast mines, and is transported by rail. The coalfired power station Morupule was built to supply electricity to the mine and surrounding areas. The mine is the main employer in the town, which has the usual amenities of shopping centres, hotels, guest houses and an airport.

Letsibogo Dam
The Letsibogo Dam is part of the massive North-South Carrier (NSC) Water Project, which saw the construction of several dams, water transmission systems and water treatment works to develop water resources in the northeast of the country and relieve tight water demand in the southeast, particularly in the capital.

NSC links Letsibogo and major wellfields to Gaborone via a large, 400 kilometre pipeline. A major leisure venue for residents of, or visitors to, ‘Phikwe,’ the Letsibogo Dam is situated near the nearby village of Mmadinare.

Lepokole Hills
Situated approximately 25 kilometres northeast of the village of Bobonong, the Lepokole Hills are composed of colossal granite blocks often piled one on top of the other, giving way to fantastic creations of rock, trees, vegetation and sky. The Hills are in fact the southernmost extension of the Matopos Hills in Zimbabwe, which feature similar terrain.

Hiking, climbing and fabulous scenery are some of the main attractions here, with incredible views from atop the highest hills. And the area is extremely rich in archaeological and historical treasures.

San rock paintings can be seen in the rocky overhangs of kopjes, and some tell the story of their retreat from encroaching peoples into these hills. Walled ruins in the style of the Great Zimbabwe era can also be seen, as can the remains of ancient village settlements and Iron Age sites, their evidence including stone arrangements, granaries, pottery and Iron-Age tools.

A community based tourism project for the development of Lepokole is being administered through the Mapanda Conservation Trust. Plans are underway to fence the area surrounding the hills, restock it with indigenous wildlife, and offer nature walks and wildlife viewing, as well as guided hikes up the hills. The Trust also plans to build camping facilities. At present a camp site is available, but there are no ablution blocks or other facilities, thus travellers must come fully self-contained. It is proper courtesy to request permission to camp at the hills from the village headman.

Botswana Tourism Organisation is assisting the communities in the Lepokole Conservation Area to promote local conservation, generate important income for rural residents, and diversify their tourism product, enabling the communities to achieve the maximum tourism potential of this rich and diverse area. Proposed development projects will include activities such as nature walks, sunset moments, insects and bird watching, camping, game viewing and hiking.

Tswapong Hills
Situated east of Palapye, the imposing Tswapong Hills rise almost four hundred metres above the surrounding plains. These one-billion year-old titans extend 60 kms west of the village of Moremi, and measure a full 20 kms in breadth. Comprised of sandstone, ironstone and quartzite, which give them their characteristic rich hues, Tswapong holds numerous fascinating, and very beautiful, archaeological, historical and natural history sites.

Some of the earliest traces of Bantu speaking people in Southern Africa have been found in the gorges at Tswapong, and many are littered with fragments of beautifully decorated pottery dating back to the first millennium. Collapsed and buried iron smelters give evidence of the iron smelting that took place in the gorges; and red ochre paintings can be seen under rocky overhangs.

Big game used to occupy this area, but now the hills are home to such mammals as rock dassies, baboons, brown hyena and leopard. Over 350 species of birds have been recorded in the area, including the endangered Cape Vulture, the Black Eagle, the Black Stork and the beautiful Meyer’s Parrot, as well as over a hundred butterfly species.

One of the biggest draws is the lush, wet vegetation and a series of waterfalls – uncharacteristic of Botswana’s generally dry, waterless terrain.

The hills absorb water from deep aquifers in the ground and accumulated rain from above, releasing it in natural fresh springs scattered throughout the hills, which in turn form brooks and – with greater accumulations of water – waterfalls that collect in beautiful lagoons.

Moremi Gorge
Situated deep within the hills, which can only be reached by a rather vigorous climb, Moremi Gorge is the source of three permanent waterfalls. The first two are smaller, but fan out into large waterholes, whilst the uppermost falls is a full ten-metres high, giving rise to arresting scenes of clear water cascading over rocky outcrops, then collecting in a deeply hidden, lushly vegetated, fern-fringed lagoon.

The Moremi Gorge is a designated National Monument and is managed by the Department of National Museum, Monuments and Art Gallery. The Moremi Mannonye Conservation Trust, through the support of the Botswana Tourism Organisation, involves local residents in developing the area for non-consumptive eco-tourism. The area is of great religious and spiritual importance to the community.

Before venturing into the hills, you should, as a matter of courtesy, request permission from the local headman. A National Museum guide is available at Moremi village.

Tswapong is an ideal weekend getaway for residents of and visitors to Gaborone or Francistown. It doesn’t require a four-wheel drive vehicle, and camping is allowed near the site, though at present visitors must come fully self-contained. Plans are underway to develop camping and ablution blocks, trail signage and wooden elevated pathways.

Jwaneng
Fittingly named, the Jwaneng Diamond Mine – the richest diamond mine in the world – is situated in south-central Botswana, on the fringes of the Kgalagadi, approximately 80 kms west of Kanye. Jwaneng means ‘a place of small stones.’

Owned and operated by Debswana, a partnership between the diamond mining magnate DeBeers and the Botswana Government, Jwaneng has been in operation since 1982, and has consistently contributed a large share of Botswana’s total ore output. In 2007, the mine produced approximately 13.5 million carats from 10.3 million tonnes of ore.

The mine’s accompanying township (population, 15,000) is an open one, and tourists can drive through the township and make use of its facilities, such as petrol stations, restaurants or guest houses.

The mine has established and supports the nearby Jwana Game Park, which is home to a number of indigenous wildlife species, excluding the large predators. There is, however, a Cheetah Conservation Botswana field unit in the park. And in 2007, two white rhinos were introduced into the park from the Khama Rhino Sanctuary.

Members of the public are welcome to visit the game park, and tours of the diamond mine can be booked through the Jwaneng Mine Public Relations Office, tel: +267 588-4245.

Jwana Game Park
Through the support of the mine, Jwana Game Park was established and is now home to a number of indigenous wildlife species, excluding the large predators. There is, however, a Cheetah Conservation Botswana field unit in the park. And in 2007, two white rhinos were introduced into the park from the Khama Rhino Sanctuary.

Kanye
One of the most scenic routes in southern Botswana is the Gaborone to Kanye drive (approximately 80 kms southwest of Gaborone). The road gently climbs and descends, giving entrance to gently rolling grasslands rich in trees and shrubs, quaint vistas of agricultural lands and grazing livestock, and tiny villages nestled between rock-strewn hills.

Home of the Bangwaketse people who settled in the area in the mid- 19th century, Kanye is the longest continuously occupied capital village in Botswana. There are a number of interesting places to see in Kanye, so plan on a full day excursion from Gaborone, or a night-over at one of its lodges or guest houses.

The Polokwe Viewpoint, situated about ten kilometres north of Kanye on the Thamaga road, gives a breathtaking view of the northern valley, particularly at sunrise and sunset. From the Gorge, near Seepapitso Secondary School, interesting, and very beautiful, walks can be taken – lush in vegetation, with good birding possibilities. Stone wall settlements are also visible along the way. According to oral history, the Gorge is the place where the Bangwaketse hid from Mzilikazi’s Ndebele raids in the area. Just north of the village and near the dam lies a bird sanctuary.

Kanye’s main kgotla (village meeting place and customary court) is full of interesting historical buildings, including the former residence of Kgosi (Chief) Bathoen I, the original tribal offices, built in 1914 by Seepapitso III, and nearby, the former residence of the late Kgosi Bathoen II. As well, there are several old churches to explore, the oldest being the London Missionary Church, built in 1894. The proper courtesy is to first go to the kgotla offices and inform officials that you wish to visit the kgotla, at which point you will be warmly welcomed, and shown around.

Molepolole
Often referred to as ‘Gateway to the Kalahari,’ Molepolole is a village that one passes on the way to Khutse Game Reserve. Home to the Bakwena people, on and off for the past four hundred years, their tradition of building stone walls around their courtyards is still practised by some families.

A modern façade covers the bustling town centre, now full of every manner of shop. The Kgosi Sechele I Museum is one of the major points of interest in the village. Housed in what once was the colonial police station (1902), its exhibitions seek to preserve the fast disappearing culture of the Bakwena people. The Museum offers an arts and crafts programme, educational programmes for schoolchildren, and guided tours of the village.

The Scottish Livingstone Church, situated on the main road is still a very prominent landmark. It was built early in the 20th century, and in the 1930s established the Scottish Livingstone Hospital, situated further down the main road.

Just outside Molepolole, on the Thamaga Road, is the Logaga Lwa ga Kobokwe also known as the Livingstone’s Cave. Despite warnings from the Kwena tribal traditional doctor that he would die if he entered the cave, Livingstone did so and emerged alive. It is believed that Chief Sechele’s brief conversion to Christianity was prompted by this event.

Manyana
Perhaps the most visited rock painting site in the Gaborone area, the paintings are spread over five separate areas of rock cliff face. Images include giraffe, antelope, human figures and geometric designs, all of which date from between 1100 and 1700AD. They were in all likelihood made by Khoe (click-speaking) herders. Gazetted as a National Monument, the site is fenced, and you can only gain entry through the custodian.

At the south end of the village stands Livingstone’s Tree, under which the great explorer is said to have preached. This old, massive fig tree – now fenced off – rests on its branches that now touch the ground.

Old Palapye
Old Palapye is an important multicultural historical site containing artifacts from the Middle Stone Age, the Late Stone Age, the Early Iron Age, and in contemporary times, the 19th century capital of the Bangwato (led by Khama III), who occupied the area from 1889-1902.

Though only capital for thirteen years, the population of this settlement at the foot of the Tswapong Hills is estimated to have been approximately 300 000 people, including resident European missionaries and hunters. The wet, well watered micro-climate of Tswapong, and the perennial springs and waterfalls of Photophoto valley are believed to have been the main attractions for settlement.

When water supplies dwindled and proved insufficient, the Bangwato left Phalatswe and established their new capital at Serowe, where it remains today.

The occupation of Old Palapye is significant in the history of Botswana, particularly its role in restricting the Ndebele’s penetration to the then Rhodesia. It was critical as a centre for European encounters with Batswana, and provides evidence for one of the first agro-towns in Botswana.

Stone walls, middens (the stone remains of rondavels), rock paintings, and the remains of a prison, market centre and historic graves (both Europeans’ and Batswana’s) can all be seen at Old Palapye. The most outstanding structure is the remains of the London Missionary Society Church, which was built between 1891 and 1894. The front and back of the burnt-brick structure still stand, giving some idea of the huge effort that would have gone into its construction.

Some wild animals, such as baboons, vervet monkeys, porcupines, rock dassies and leopard, still inhabit the area. There are two Cape Vulture breeding colonies, the largest situated at Gootau, with more than 200 breeding pairs. The village headman must be approached to visit this site, and care should be taken not to disturb the birds.

The nearby Photophoto Gorge is less impressive than Moremi Gorge, but more accessible. It is used to water livestock and for religious rituals.

Situated near the village of Malaka (where there are waterfalls), Old Palapye has been earmarked for further tourism development, through the Malaka community based tourism project, and in conjunction with developments at Tswapong. Old Palapye was gazetted as a National Monument in 1938, and falls under the jurisdiction of the National Museum and Monuments.

Gabane
Approximately 15 kms from Gaborone, this lovely village set amongst hills is wonderful for walking and exploring on foot. It is home to the Pelegano Village Industry, a development estate that houses a number of different village ventures, including a glass factory, metal works and a sorghum milling plant. The pottery factory and shop feature uniquely designed tableware, vases, and decorative items.

The Veld Products Research centre welcomes casual visitors. This is an innovative research and development organisation that promotes the sound management of veldt products in SADC (Southern African Development Community) countries, as well as investigates the potential for domesticating indigenous plants for sale.

Thamaga
This picturesque village, situated southwest of Gaborone, is set amongst large granite boulders, the largest being Thamaga Hill. It is best known for its very beautiful pottery, of the same name, and its factory has been in operation for more than 30 years. A wide range of top quality products is available, from tea and coffee sets, to platters, to candle holders, to full tableware sets, all in keeping with its inimitable designs.

Tsodilo Hills
Rising abruptly, and dramatically, from the Kalahari scrub bush – the rock face turning a copper colour in the dying sun – the magnetic power of Tsodilo Hills both captivates and mystifies. There is an undeniable spiritualism about the Hills that immediately strikes the visitor.

Indeed for the people who live at the Hills – the San, the original inhabitants, and the Hambukushu who have periodically occupied the hills for the past 200 years – Tsodilo is a sacred, mystical place where ancestral spirits dwell. In earlier times, their ancestors performed religious rituals to ask for assistance, and for rain. They also put paintings on the rock face; and their meaning and symbolism remain a mystery even to today.

Exploring the three main Hills – Male, Female, and child – is a journey into antiquity. Archaeological research – ongoing for the past 30 years – estimates that Tsodilo has been inhabited for the past 100 000 years, making this one of the world’s oldest historical sites. Pottery, iron, glass beads, shell beads, carved bone and stone tools date back 90 000 years.

The Early iron Age Site at Tsodilo, called Divuyu, dates between 700- 900AD, and reveals that Bantu people have been living at the hills for over 1000 years, probably having come from central Africa. They were cattle farmers, settled on the plateau, and traded copper jewellery from the Congo, seashells from the Atlantic, and glass beads from Asia, probably in exchange for specularite and furs. There was a great deal of interaction between different groups, and trade networks were extensive.

Excavations also reveal over 20 mines that extracted specularite – a glittery iron-oxide derivative that was used in early times as a cosmetic.

Rock paintings are nearly everywhere – representing thousands of years of human inhabitation, and are amongst the region’s finest, and most important. There are approximately 4 000 in all, comprising red finger paintings and geometrics. It is almost certain that most paintings were done by the San, and some were painted by the pastoral Khoe who later settled in the area. The red paintings were done mainly in the first millennium AD.

Two of the most famous images are the rhino polychromes and the Eland panel, the latter situated on a soaring cliff that overlooks the African wilderness. Indeed the inaccessibility of many of the paintings may be linked to their religious significance.

The fact that Tsodilo is totally removed from all other rock art sites in Southern Africa adds to its aura of magic. The nearest known site is 250 kilometres away. What’s more, the paintings at Tsodilo are generally unlike others in the southern African region – in both style and incidence of certain images. Many are isolated figures and over half depict wild and domestic animals. In fact, there is a higher incidence of domestic animals than at other sites in Southern Africa. Some are scenes, but few seem to tell a story. Many are outlined schematic designs and geometrical patterns.

There are walking trails – the Rhino Trail, Lion Trail and cliff Trail, and others; and it is recommended that you take a guide to walk the trails and see the paintings. Both San and Hambukushu live near the hills, and guides from their villages can be easily arranged.

There is a small museum at the entrance to the site; the main campsite at Museum Headquarter has ablutions and water, while the three other smaller campsites have no facilities. Because of its tremendous historical and cultural importance, Tsodilo was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002.

Mochudi
Mochudi is the main village for Bakgatla tribe whose totem is a monkey. Bakgatla who migrated from present day South Africa in 1871 to escape Boer encroachment of their lands, settled at the base of Phuthadikobo Hill and along the Ngotwane River.

Like most major villages in Botswana, Mochudi is a mixture of old and new, traditional and modern, as is best seen through changing architectural preferences in housing. The main attraction in Mochudi is the Phuthadikobo Museum which is perched at the top of a hill and holds a rich history of Bakgatla tribe and Batswana in general. Its collection of historical photographs shows women making pottery, blacksmiths operating bellows, chiefs making rain, houses being decorated, and boys’ and girls’ initiation rites. Artifacts include pottery, basketry and other traditional utensils, weaponry, as well as Regent Isang’s rain-making pots.

Recognised by large logs set vertically in the ground in a semicircle, is the village meeting place and customary court, a focal point of the village. Nearby is a stonewalled enclosure where stray cattle and/or cattle that are being disputed, are kept. Two Kgatla chiefs, Kgosi Linchwe Khamanyane Pilane (who ruled between 1875 and 1924) and Kgosi Molefi Kgafela Pilane (who ruled between 1929 and 1958) are buried here. Also nearby are two traditional rondavels, beautifully maintained, and good examples of how village housing once looked.

The building was originally a school built by Regent Isang Pilane in 1921. It was the first school in Botswana to offer secondary education and became a museum in 1976. It has steadily expanded its stock of artifacts and historical photographs. It holds a number of fascinating photographs donated by Professor Isaac Schapera, the world-renowned anthropologist who chronicled in meticulous detail the life and culture of the Batswana, and the changes rapidly taking place in their lives in the 20th century, nearly up to his death in the year 2000. There is a small shop in the Museum selling local arts and crafts, and silkscreen products made there.

Another building of interest is the Deborah Retief Memorial Church, administered by the Dutch Reformed Mission, located just after the turn-off to the kgotla. This was built by the Bakgatla in 1903 and is still in use today.

The Pilane Leatherworks, situated near the railway tracks crossover, near the Francistown Road, produce sturdy and long-lasting leather shoes, sandals, purses and handbags.

Kolobeng
The site of David Livingstone’s third and final mission station was Kolobeng, approximately 20 kms west of Gaborone, past Gabane. Here he built the house and church. The picture above is showing a site of David Livingstone’s final mission, Kolobeng. At 22, this is where Kolobeng and his wife Mary would work to convert the local Bakwena to Christianity. Their daughter Elizabeth, who died at the age of six weeks, is buried here. What remains now is the foundation of the house. Kolobeng is gazetted as a National Monument, and you can only gain entry through the custodian.

Lobatse
A drive past the country’s High Court, as well as the Botswana Meat Commission (BMC), one of Africa’s largest abattoirs and meat-processing operations, welcomes you to Lobatse.

Approximately 70 kms south of Gaborone, is the last stop for cattle farmers trekking their livestock hundreds of kilometres through Kalahari sands for sale to the BMC. Cattle farming is the country’s third largest revenue earner, and its high quality, free-roaming beef is primarily exported to the United Kingdom and the European Union. Tours to the BMC can be arranged through the General Manager Operations, Tel: +267 533- 1292.

The first major tribal settlement in the area was a Bangwaketse village, built in the late 18th century. Later, because of conflict with neighbouring groups, they moved west to their present capital, Kanye. A construction camp and railway siding were built in 1896, the latter servicing Cecil Rhodes’ railway line that ran north to Southern Rhodesia.

The original railway station no longer stands, but Botswana Railways still runs through the town, then passing through Gaborone, and towns further north, before reaching Francistown.

There are several interesting archaeological remains to be seen around Lobatse. Some are on private land and require permission to visit. These include stone walling from the Ngwaketse village, situated on Lobatse Estates, and the earlier Seoke stone wall settlement built by the Bangwaketse around 1770.

Just outside the town, on the main Mafikeng road, there are rock paintings of wildebeest – though now quite faded, probably painted by Khoe herders, and possibly dating between 1000 to 1700AD.

Otse
Boasting a number of glorious climbing and hiking options, the most prominent being the ‘Lovers’ Hill,’ (‘Lentswe la Baratani’),Otse is a quaint but stunning village about 40 kilometres from Gaborone.

‘Lovers’ Hill,’ (‘Lentswe la Baratani’), carries a Shakespearean-esque legend about two young lovers who were refused permission to marry. Despondent, they both flung themselves off the cliff to their deaths. The hill is regarded as sacred; and historically Batswana would neither climb the hill, nor point to it.

Just after Baratani Hill, still on the main road, and before the turnoff to the village, are a cheese factory (locally made) and adjoining café, and Botlhale Jwa Phala, a paper factory that produces invitation cards, photo albums, bags, book-markers and fuel briquettes from discarded paper. Broken bits of tiles are used to make photo and mirror frames, lampshades and furniture decoration.

Browsing is encouraged, and purchases can be made directly from the factory. Turning left at the Otse signpost, and driving through the village, one crosses a pretty river valley where cattle and goats are usually grazing. The Mannyelanong Game Reserve is visible from here, and provides a dramatic backdrop to the landscape.

The reserve was established in 1985 on Balete Tribal Land for the protection of the Cape vultures that nest at its south end. The four-square kilometre area encompasses a single, red sandstone hill. Visitors can climb the hill, but the south end is fenced, and cannot be entered, to prevent disturbance to the vultures at their nesting sites. Entrance to the reserve is through the Department of Wildlife and National Parks offices in Otse, and is free.

The Cape Vulture is an endangered species and fully protected under the laws of Botswana. Cape vultures have nested in Mannyelanong for hundreds of years, but in the last 30 years or so their numbers have diminished considerably. With human expansion, the vultures’ food has become scarcer, with the result that chicks suffer from calcium deficiency due to lack of bone in their diet. Since the establishment of the reserve, vulture populations there have stabilised.

Serowe
Serowe is the birthplace of the country’s founding father – and first president – Sir Seretse Khama. And much of the drama of his controversial marriage to an Englishwoman, Ruth Williams, was played out in this village. Today their graves are situated near the Ngwato totem, the duiker (phuti in Setswana) in the royal cemetery. (You must obtain permission to visit these sites).

Khama III Memorial Museum
Keen historians, who want to find out the full story of their role in Botswanan history, can visit the Khama III Memorial Museum in town– named after Seretse’s father, who died when Seretse was young – is housed in a red Victorian building, recently restored, and containing a fascinating collection of furniture, uniforms, correspondence and photographs that chronicle the legacy of the Khama family, and the history of Serowe.

The Khama Rhino Sanctuary
The Khama Rhino Sanctuary is another 40 kilometres further on and, with a campsite and comfortable chalets, it is the best overnight stop along this route. Established in 1993 as a trust by residents and leaders alike of the community, the sanctuary has served a crucial role in the conservation of Botswana’s rhino population. At least 22 rhinos and a single black rhino inhabit the location, as well as a variety of other game species such as springbok and hartebeest.

In 1880s, under the Bechuanaland protectorate, Serowe was a settlement for European missionaries and traders. Today visitors can visit the London Missionary Society (LMS) church, its tall steeple still an important landmark for the town, as it was for missionaries, prospectors and explorers who came from far and wide. The massive church was reconstructed with the original stones it had first been built with in Old Palapye

At the kgotla – the traditional meeting place and customary court, situated below Serowe Hill, there stands an impressive statue of Sir Seretse Khama, erected to mark the tenth anniversary of his death.

For arts and crafts lovers, there are shopping opportunities at the Boithselo project where the Bakgalagadi and San peoples manufacture attractive and unique products.

Ghanzi
Regarded as Botswana’s cattle farming hub. With Over 200 cattle farms, comprising approximately six percent of the national land, are backed one against the other in largely fenced holdings. Ghanzi District is located in the Western Region of the country and is one of the best cattle ranging areas in the world, renowned for the high quality, free roaming beef it produces.

The freehold farms in the district contribute a large portion towards the beef industry in Botswana. In fact, Ghanzi farmers provide 75 percent of the beef that the Botswana Meat Commission (BMC) exports, primarily to the United Kingdom and the European Union (EU). Beef is the third largest industry in the country.

More recently the destination is now being proclaimed as the ‘Gateway to the Kalahari’. Because it lies close to the Gaborone/ Maun/Namibia fork in the Trans-Kalahari Highway, it is a convenient stopover for all destinations.

The Ghanzi community is a conglomeration of ethnic groups – the San and Bakgalagadi (the original inhabitants), the Herero, the Batawana, and the Afrikaaners who first settled in the area in the late 1800s. Sesarwa is the most commonly spoken language in the district spoken by 33% of the population, followed by Shekgalagadi, Setswana and Herero at 30%, 21% and 10% respectively with other languages making 6% of languages spoken in the district.

East of this extensive area of farms lies the vast Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR); and in between lies a 58 kms ‘no man’s land,’ a buffer zone between wildlife and the farms, and between Kalahari predators and livestock.

Several cattle farmers have developed game ranches and wildlife concessions – land allocated near their farms – and tourists come for wildlife viewing, excursions to CKGR, and desert walks with the San people,who share their ancient way of life that masterfully and respectfully exploited the food and water resources of the desert.

Some lodges offer up-market accommodation in rondavels or chalets, whilst others give tourists the opportunity to experience the traditional way of life of Kalahari hunter/gatherers – sleeping in grass huts, albeit with amenities.

Kuru Traditional Dance Festival
Thirty-five kilometres north of Ghanzi is the small village of D’Kar, home to various extended family groups of Bushman people.

Every year, D’Kar also hosts the Kuru Traditional Dance and Music Festival during August. The festival is organised by the Kuru D’Kar Trust, part of the Kuru Family of Organisations (KFO, seven in all) which state their goal as the promotion of San culture.

This trust also sponsors and promotes the paintings of very gifted San artists, many of whom have exhibited and sold overseas. Nature, and humans’ relationship to it, is an over-riding theme in these wildly colourful and imaginative oil paintings. An elderly woman named Dada, recently deceased, was the group’s most internationally acclaimed painter.

Another Kuru Family organisation, Gantsi craft, aims to create income generation opportunities for rural dwellers in the district by promoting and marketing (locally and internationally) their arts and crafts. It houses a shop in the centre of Ghanzi and offers quality, authentic San arts and crafts, including ostrich eggshell jewellery and belts, hunting sets, fire sticks, leather items, carvings, and traditional musical instruments.

Bahurutshe Cultural Village
This delightful diversion is a recreated Hurutshe village offering accommodation (in traditional rondavels), arts, crafts and dancing, and Sunday brunch with local cuisine.

Mahalapye
Mahalapye, located on the edge of the Kalahari Desert, was one of the locations that lent its scenic environment to Amma Asante’s “A United Kingdom”. A feature film based on the founding president Seretse Khama’s love affair with his British wife Ruth Khama.

Northern Tuli Game Reserve
Spectacular landscapes, rich and varied wildlife, and a host of historical, cultural and natural history attractions define this unique and very striking corner of northeastern Botswana.

Straddling the Shashe, Motloutse and Limpopo Rivers, which serve as natural boundaries with Zimbabwe and South Africa, the Northern Tuli Game Reserve (NTGR) comprises 71,000 hectares of remarkably diverse habitat, including mophane bushland, riverine woodland, and marshland, punctuated by towering sandstone cliffs, basalt formations and unusually shaped kopjes – making for truly breathtaking scenery.

One of the largest privately owned game reserves in Southern Africa and incorporating three major private concessions (Tuli Safari Lodge, Nitani Private Game Reserve, and Mashatu Game Reserve), the NTGR is home to 48 species of mammals and over 350 species of birds, with an estimated 20 000 animals residing in the reserve.

Most naturally occurring wildlife species are present, including elephant, kudu, zebra, impala, duiker, wildebeest, waterbuck, steenbok, and warthog. Large herds of eland – often not seen elsewhere in Botswana – are present, and these are indeed an awesome sight. All major predators, including lion, leopard, cheetah and hyena, are present, and the birdlife is prolific.

The NTGR is adjacent to a larger area of eastern Botswana called the Tuli Block. This is a ten kilometre wide strip of land running approximately Northern Tuli Game Reserve 180 kilometres south to Martin’s Drift that holds a string of commercial agricultural and game farms, several of which also offer tourist facilities.

Travellers keen for a more active safari experience will delight in all there is on offer. You can hike the reserve, bike the reserve, horse-ride the reserve, and even hot air balloon the reserve! At Mashatu Game Reserve, guests can accompany elephant or predator researchers, to gain first-hand insights into the behaviour, feeding habits, territories, demography, and social structure of these animals, as well as critical wildlife conservation issues. A similar experience awaits guests at Nitani – as they come to understand the complexities of a long-term hyena research project.

Molema Bush Camp, a community based tourism project managed and operated by Tuli Safari Lodge, is an ideal way to take part in a tourism concept that is rapidly gaining momentum in Africa. Local communities become active partners in tourism projects, from which they can more readily see clear-cut financial and social benefits.

Molema is a joint venture between three local villages: Motlhabaneng, Lentswe le Moriti and Mathathane and two tour operators: Tuli Safari Lodge and Talana Farms.

Archaeological sites provide an important historical perspective to the region. Iron Age sites demonstrate the formidable skills in pottery, mining, and smelting of the Zhizo, Leopard’s Kopje and Mapungubwe peoples, who practised agriculture and animal husbandry in the area.

Artifacts from the Mapungubwe Kingdom (1220-1290AD), a precursor to the Great Zimbabwe civilisation, reveal the sophistication of the technology and society of its people, and their extensive trade networks.

The NTGR will form the heart of the proposed Shashe/Limpopo Trans- Frontier Conservation Area (TFCA), its signatories – Botswana, Zimbabwe and South Africa – agreeing to cooperate to conserve and manage shared natural resources. Rich in biodiversity, the proposed TFCA will cover approximately 4,872 square kilometres and will be one of the largest wildlife conservation areas in Southern Africa.

Mapungubwe Hill
Mapungubwe was a prosperous Iron Age metropolis situated on the banks of the Limpopo River that thrived nearly a thousand years ago. It was ruled by a king of the Leopard Kopje people, and its extensive trade networks reached as far as Egypt, India and China.

The kingdom’s capital was situated at the 300 metre long Mapungubwe Hill, which today is only accessible through two very steep and narrow paths that twist their way to the top.

The civilisation of Mapungubwe was highly developed; its unique arts were of a superior craftsmanship and quality. One of the most famous pieces unearthed by archaeologists is a superbly crafted golden rhino. Other pieces include beautiful pottery and jewellery.

Mophane woodlands, riverine forests and sandstone formations create a breathtaking backdrop for Mapungubwe Hill. The area is rich in wildlife, including white rhino, elephant, giraffe, gemsbok, eland, lion, leopard and hyenas, as well as over 400 species of birds.

Motlhabaneng
Local village tours often become a highlight of a trip to Tuli. A delightful morning’s outing to the quaint village of Motlhabaneng consists of a visit to the kgotla for a chat with the village chief or headman, a visit to the local primary school where children don traditional clothing and dance, and a visit to a basket-maker’s home where guests interact with villagers, learn something of their traditional way of life and watch hand-woven baskets in the making.

Ancient rock paintings, almost certainly done by Southern Africa’s original inhabitants, the San, can also be seen at the outskirts of Motlhabaneng. The paintings depict people, animals, hunting scenes and mythological creatures, part of the San’s complex cosmology and belief system.

Solomon’s Wall
This rather amazing natural phenomenon, situated in the Tuli Block, is a 30 metre high basalt dyke that once formed a steep-sided natural dam wall across the Motloutse River.

A full ten metres wide, this ancient dyke once held back a great lake, with waterfalls spilling over the dyke. Evidence of this great lake are the numerous semi-precious stones (e.g. quartz and agate) found along the Motloutse riverbed.

Tall fever trees line the natural beach, making for a shady picnic site. Solomon’s Wall can only be reached with a four-wheel drive vehicle.