Heritage & Cultural Tourism in Gibraltar

American War Memorial
This memorial was erected by The United States of America to commemorate the achievements and comradeship of the American and British Navies in this vicinity during World War 1. Inscriptions on plaques at the memorial;- Operation Torch: In memory of the British and American military who risked their lives in the liberation of North Africa in World War II.

The lessons learned and relationships forged between these forces during this campaign ultimately led to the liberation of Europe; USS Chauncey: Sacred to the memory of the officers and men of the USS Chauncey who, during the World War lost their lives on 19 November 1917, while engaged on patrol duty off the Strait of Gibraltar. US Coast Guard Tampa and US Coast Guard Seneca: Sacred to the memory of the one hundred and fifteen officers and men of the US Coast Guard Cutter Tampa sunk by enemy submarine in the Bristol Channel on the 26 September 1918 when all on board were lost.

And to the memory of the eleven officers and men of the US Coast Guard Seneca lost in bravely endeavouring as volunteers to salvage the torpedoed British Steamer Wellington in the Bay of Biscay on the 17 September 1918; The First US Naval Mediterranean Squadron, dispatched by President Thomas Jefferson to protect American interests in the Mediterranean. The Squadron’s first port of call was Gibraltar on 1 July 1801, and the first documented gun salute fired by the US Navy in the Mediterraneanwas to Lt Gen O’Hara, Governor of Gibraltar

An Art Walk
Casemates is a good starting point with the Fine Arts Gallery on the first floor of the former barracks showcasing temporary exhibitions. Here you can sample the work of some of the more prominent, current local artists and groups, with international artists also using the venue.

From the Square we take you up Casemates Hill to Montagu Bastion, to the Gibraltar Exhibitions of Modern Art Gallery, GEMA. Here you can enjoy around 50 artworks, many previous winners of the three main art competitions held annually in Gibraltar. GEMA is also home to six works of internationally acclaimed Gibraltarian artist Christian Hook. A varied collection, which includes sculptures, video, installation and photography.

You can continue your walk through Irish Town before arriving at John Mackintosh Square where you will find the City Hall. This building has an interesting history in its own right and houses the Mario Finlayson National Art Gallery, established in 2015. This Gallery is dedicated to four deceased artists, Gustavo Bacarisas, Jacobo Azagury, Leni Mifsud, and Rudesindo mania, considered to be the most renowned and prolific local artists of the time. It also pays tribute to the work of Mario Finlayson, the artist who has been the main campaigner for a National Gallery in Gibraltar.

Bedenham Memorial
On Friday 27th April 1951, whilst tied up alongside ordnance wharf near a point now called Bedenham Steps, the naval armament vessel RFA BEDENHAM, loaded with 500 tons of ammunition, blew up, causing 13 deaths and widespread destruction throughout the city of Gibraltar. In 2001, on the 50th anniversary of the explosion a plaque was placed by the Gibraltar Heritage Trust in memory of all who perished.

Blackwatch Memorial
Situated at the eastern end of Devil’s Tower Road, this cairn was erected as a memorial to the 4th Btn. The Black Watch (Royal Highland Regiment) and their unrelenting work on the defences of the north and east sides of the Rock from July 1940 to April 1943 when the Battalion formed part of the garrison.

British War Memorial
Unveiled by the then Governor Sir Charles Monro on the 27th September 1923 and is the work (on Carrara marble) of Jose Piquet Catoli of Barcelona. There are two Russian guns close by which were brought to Gibraltar in 1858 captured during the Crimean War. Four of those guns were presented to the City of Gibraltar for the valuable help given to Britain and her armed forces during the war. The other two guns are situated at the main entrance to the Alameda Gardens.

Casemates Square
The square takes its name from the British-built Grand Casemates, a casemate and bombproof barracks completed in 1817. Located at the northern end of Main Street, the square is lined with numerous pubs, bars and restaurants. Strategically positioned at the entrance of Main Street in the heart of Gibraltar’s shopping district, this lively area was once the site of public executions. Following the refurbishment of the square in the 1990s to replace a car park which occupied half the square, it is the site for al fresco restaurants, cafés and bars, and has become the hub of nightlife in Gibraltar. The square is also used to host various major cultural events from live open-air concerts, grand military parades, National Day celebrations and New Year’s Eve parties.

Chatham Counterguard
Orange bastion was rebuilt by the British on the site of an older and larger Spanish bastion along the Line Wall Curtain. In 1758 the main face of the bastion held six guns intended to fire out on ships located almost immediately on the other side of the defensive wall. In the 1790s, Sir William Green oversaw improvements to Gibraltar’s defences and arranged for a counterguard to be constructed in front as additional defences. This 1823 counterguard which was originally named ‘Orange Counterguard’ was later renamed to Chatham Counterguard after the Earl Of Chatham who was the Governor of Gibraltar from 1821.

The counterguard protected Orange Bastion as the enemy would have to capture the counterguard before taking it on. Nowadays this important historical wall and it’s vaults have been transformed into a lively strip of restaurants and bars, some of which provide regular music and cultural events. The strip, although still retaining its heritage importance, is particularly lively in the evenings with international eateries, wine tasting and music for all tastes

City Under Siege
Whilst it is true that during the early part of the British occupation of Gibraltar most of the population were members of the Armed Forces, and in particular the Army, the civilian population also contributed to the war effort and played an important role in the life of the Garrison. The buildings in which this exhibition is housed are probably amongst the first buildings ever constructed by the British in Gibraltar, thus dating back to the beginning of the 18th century. Originally it is thought that they were built as magazines to store ammunition and that the building in the courtyard, part of which can still be seen today, was used as a laboratory to prepare ammunition. The area is known as Willis’s Magazine although there is no record of who Willis was and why it was given that name.

Undoubtedly the most important aspect of the building is the graffiti that can be seen on the walls, the earliest of which dates back to 1726. It is thought that soldiers mounting guard in the area used to spend their time drawing graffiti so as not to fall asleep during the long hours of duty, an offence punishable by death in those days. There is much graffiti, all equally interesting, yet there are two outstanding ones featuring a drawing of a galleon together with a graffiti attributed to Sergeant Major Ince, the architect of the Great Siege Tunnels. In this area the visitor can also see the water cisterns used in those days together with the drainage system.

The various exhibits within this area of great historical value depict scenes of how the civilian population lived during those hard times and relate the quaint and often fascinating stories that have passed down to our days of how the first British settlers of Gibraltar had to cope with life.

LAW AND ORDER
Under siege conditions, the mixture of tension, boredom, anger and alcohol meant that discipline had to be strict if order was to be preserved. One of the most common forms of punishment was flogging with a nine tailed whip. A drummer in a regiment, which later became the Lancashire Fusiliers, achieved fame as the most flogged man in the British army. In his first 14 years here he received 30,000 lashes, of which 4,000 were administered in a single year.

FOOD
To preserve stocks of flour, General Eliott stopped his soldiers from powdering their hair and to set everyone a good example he even lived for a week on 4 ounces of rice a day. The high prices that could be charged for even small quantities of poor quality food tempted ships from North Africa to smuggle supplies past the enemy, but civilians often survived on little more than grass, seaweed and wild onions. During the Great Siege a cabbage cost the equivalent of two and a half days of a soldier’s pay while the head and feet of a sheep sold for more than three weeks wages!

EXODUS
To escape the bombardment people gradually abandoned their homes, until the whole population had settled south of the city in tents and ramshackle huts made from timber salvaged from their ruined houses.

This encampment between South Barracks and the Mount was at first called New Jerusalem but because of the dreadful conditions it quickly became known as “Black Town”. Even General Elliot moved his headquarters to a tent above the area known as “Red Sands”

DIG FOR VICTORY
The besieged population lacked fresh vegetables and citrus fruits, important sources of vitamin C. Vitamin C deficiency cause the flesh to blacken and can cripple and kill. To combat this deadly condition, which almost forced the city to surrender, soldiers and civilians were ordered to grow food wherever possible. General Elliot must have taken a very keen interest since he was, most unusually for this period, a strict vegetarian

DEATH AND DISEASE
During the siege, many people on a poor diet were closely confined for long periods in unsanitary conditions.

It is hardly surprising that smallpox, yellow fever, influenza, dysentery and scurvy thrived. By the end of the first year of the Great Siege, smallpox, alone had killed over 500, with the highest mortality rate amongst the children. Although the chart below contains details of the military losses, it quite clearly shows that diseases were much more dangerous than cannon balls.

Cross of Sacrifice
The Gibraltar Cross of Sacrifice is a war memorial designed by Sir Reginald Blomfield in 1917, and his monument is found in numerous Commonwealth War Graves Commission cemeteries. The cross in Gibraltar was erected by the Royal Engineers for the commission, and unveiled on Armistice Day 1922. The inscription reads:

1914-1918 1939-1945

The cross in this forecourt is similar to those raised throughout the world in grateful and undying remembrance of the sacrifice made by the sailors, soldiers and airmen from all parts of Commonwealth who died during the two World Wars. The officers and men whose names are honoured on the panels nearby were buried at sea. With their comrades who lie buried in the North Front cemetery and in the Jewish cemetery they gave their lives in Gibraltar whilst serving the Country.

Evacuation Memorial
Following the outbreak of the Second World War in September 1939, the British Government decided that the bulk of the civilian population was removed from Gibraltar as soon as possible. This statue was erected in honour of the Gibraltarians evacuated during WWII and sent to Morocco, Madeira, Jamaica, Northern Ireland and England. British troops occupied their homes locally. The Gibraltarians who had the misfortune of being sent to London suffered at the hand German bombings. A couple of thousand men who held jobs considered essential for the war effort were not allowed to leave Gibraltar. The very accurate memorial, the work of Jill Cowie Saunders, shows families re-united after the war. Those who lived this experience find this monument very moving.

Explore the World War II Tunnels
With the entry of Italy into the War, and a powerful Germany dominating Europe, the strategic importance of Gibraltar grew. The problem of storage was urgent and vital; space became even more valuable; stores, food, and equipment had to be built up and protected, and siege accommodation was required for the troops. A tunnel system would meet these needs, and would give full protection from the then known types of air attack, as well as from sea and land bombardment.

At the start of the war, the civilian population was evacuated and the garrison was greatly increased in size. Numerous new tunnels were excavated to create accommodation for the expanded garrison and to store huge quantities of food, equipment and ammunition. The tunnelling was carried out by four specialised tunnelling companies from the Royal Engineers and the Canadian Army.

A new Main Base Area was established in the south-eastern part of Gibraltar on the Mediterranean coast, shielded from the potentially hostile Spanish mainland, and new connecting tunnels were created to link this with the established military bases on the west side. A pair of tunnels the Great North Road and the Fosse Way, were excavated running nearly the full length of the Rock to interconnect the bulk of the wartime tunnels.

The tunnels accommodated what amounted to an underground city. The entire 16,000-strong garrison could be housed there along with enough food to last them for 16 months. Within the tunnels there were also an underground telephone exchange, a power generating station, a water distillation plant, a hospital, a bakery, ammunition magazines and a vehicle maintenance workshop. The total length of the entire tunnel network inside the Rock is approximately 34 miles, 55 kilometres.

Fine Arts Gallery
The Fine Arts Association Gibraltar was started in 1998 following a request by the Ministry of Culture, however, the association’s roots really go back to around 1954 with the formation of The Calpe Artists Society who organised exhibitions every year, including the first International Painting Competition in 1962.

The main objective of the Association is to be the representative body in Gibraltar of persons engaged in Fine Arts and to promote and encourage fine arts and appreciation of Fine Arts, including the organising of exhibitions and fostering links with businesses, educational establishments and the general public and also with artists and fine arts associations from other countries.

The art scene in Gibraltar is extremely vibrant especially considering the size of Gibraltar’s population which is around 30,000. There are a large number of artists of various standards and levels of commitment currently working in the Rock and there is quite a growing art buzz around the Fine Arts Association and Fine Arts Gallery.

Flemish and Great Synagogue
Gibraltar has a Jewish community dating back some 300 years and the Great Synagogue in Engineer Lane has the distinction of being one of the oldest on the Iberian Peninsula, dating back to 1724. Guided tours of the beautiful Flemish synagogue, located in Line Wall Road, can be arranged. There are a total of four synagogues in Gibraltar. The British Garrison of Gibraltar was dependent on Morocco for food and supplies, difficult to ship out from England.

That dependence became crucial whenever Spain imposed a blockade on the colony. Jewish merchants from Tetouan in Morocco came to settle soon after Gibraltar was first occupied by British forces in 1704. They were joined here by other Jews active in the Morocco trade – from London, Leghorn and Amsterdam. The modern Jewish Community of Gibraltar may date back from the eighteenth century, even though Jews had lived on the Rock in the fourteenth century and Marranos from Andalusia had also moved here later.

Gibraltar Defence Force Statue
This statue is of a Gibraltar Defence Force soldier in summer battle dress. His guard duty posture is symbolic of the role undertaken in defence of the Rock during WWII. The monument is dedicated to all Gibraltarians who served in the Gibraltar Volunteer Corps, the Gibraltar Defence Force and the Royal Gibraltar Regiment.

Gibraltar Exhibitions of Modern Art – GEMA
The Gibraltar Exhibitions of Modern Art – G.E.M.A., located at Montagu Bastion, Line Wall road, was officially inaugurated on Tuesday 10th November by the Minister for Culture, the Hon Steven Linares. This new gallery opened with exhibition rooms dedicated to previous winners of the three main art competitions held annually in Gibraltar; The International Art Exhibition, The Young Artist Competition and The Spring Visual Arts Competition.

The public are able to enjoy over 40 artworks encompassing mostly paintings, but also sculptures, video, installation and photography. The gallery is housed within the historical Montagu Bastion, which was recently refurbished, after having been used as a store for many years. Thus now serving the dual purpose of showcasing local art talent as well as the opening up of a new site of heritage value, for locals and tourists alike.

Gibraltar Garrison Library
The Gibraltar Garrison Library was founded in 1793 by Captain (afterwards Colonel) Drinkwater, the historian of the Great Siege of Gibraltar, 1779-1783. Drinkwater had, during the Siege, ‘lamented the want of a public library in Gibraltar’. The library was completed in 1804 under the governorship of the Duke of Kent, Queen Victoria’s father. The librarian at that time was Captain Fyers (afterwards Major-General) of the Royal Engineers, but his role in the Library’s evolution went much further in that he was the architect and the driving force behind the Garrison Library building as we see it today.

The library flourished as a meeting place for the officers of the Garrison. This early history gives us a clear indication of purpose of the library as a place for training and recreation. A library was essential for young officers in training, and this is reflected in the collections which cover a number of areas such as the military sciences, travel narratives, of Mediterranean countries and cultures and of histories of countries such as India and Africa. The Gibraltar Garrison Library remained as a military library until September 2011, at which point the Library was handed over to the Government of Gibraltar.

This new chapter has also brought the Library well and truly into the twenty-first century. Recently Gibraltar’s International Literary Festival has selected the Garrison Library as its epicentre, where world class writers and speakers come together for a few days of public events within this historic building and a few others in the city.

Gibraltar National Museum and Moorish Baths
The Gibraltar National Museum is a national museum of history, culture and natural history located within the city centre of Gibraltar. Founded in 1930 by the then Governor of Gibraltar, General Sir Alexander Godley, the museum houses an array of displays portraying the Rock’s millennia-old history and the unique culture of its people. The museum also incorporates the remains of a 14th-century Moorish bath house.

History
The first known collection established in Gibraltar was due to the Reverend John White, chaplain at Gibraltar from 1756 to 1774. Encouraged by his elder brother Gilbert White, he collected zoological specimens which he studied and sent to England. He took advice from Giovanni Antonio Scopoli and also later wrote in England, what is considered the first detailed zoological account of Gibraltar. However Fauna Calpensis was never published and it and his collections are now lost. The next known recording of something that could resemble a museum dates from 1830. St Bernard’s Hospital is known to have had a room for specimens of natural history and morbid anatomy. Again, no remains of such collection are kept.

The first actual proposal to open a museum in Gibraltar was made in 1835 at a meeting of the Gibraltar Scientific Society (a group of British Army officers who met at the Garrison Library). The first museum was established in 1842, it changed its name to the Museum Society. A Mr. Frembly was elected as curator on the 19th November 1836 and although the precise location of the museum is uncertain, records show that it was housed in rented accommodation and had a large collection of varied specimens. One of the milestones of the existence of the Society, although its importance was not realised at the time, was the presentation of a fossil skull to the Society said to have been found at Forbes’s Quarry. This skull (The Gibraltar Skull or Gibraltar 1) presented on 3rd March 1848 to the Society by its secretary, Lieutenant Edmund Flint of the Royal Artillery, was later found to have been of the same type as the one found in the Neander Valley in Germany in 1856.

By 1850, the meetings became infrequent and proposals were put forward to unite the society’s museum with the Garrison Library, which had been in existence and functioning independently since 1793. The proposal was not taken forward and the collections were transferred to the Soldier’s Home where they suffered mixed fortunes. Gibraltar had lost its first museum.

In the ensuing years, correspondence was passed between Governors and various military personalities on the topic of Gibraltar needing a museum. However nothing concrete was ever done and Gibraltar was without a museum for the next 35 years.

Gustavo Bacarisas Gallery
Situated in Casemates Square, in the heart of historical Gibraltar, this gallery is the most important exhibition space of the area. Established in 2011 and named after the acclaimed Gibraltarian painter Gustavo Bacarisas, the gallery hosted the world-famous Beatles Memorabilia Julian Lennon exhibition. The gallery regularly organises exhibitions by local and international artists. Impossible to miss, the Gustavo Bacarisas Gallery is a great way to get acquainted with Gibraltarian art.

This larger gallery located at Casemates Gallery is in a perfect location. The Ministry of Culture and Gibraltar Cultural Agency also organise three main annual art competitions namely; The International Competition which is open to all, the Spring Festival Competition which is open to local residents and the Young Artist Competition aimed at local young artists. Gibraltarian art, lead by the Fine Arts Association and in partnership with the Ministry of Culture and the Cultural Agency is heading towards a new Renaissance.

Irish Town
Irish Town is at the commercial heart of the city of Gibraltar. In the period when Gibraltar was Spanish, the street was called the Calle de Santa Ana. It was also the venue for a convent for nuns, founded in 1587. When Gibraltar was taken from Spain by an Anglo-Dutch force in 1704, The Convent of Santa Clara was abandoned by the nuns and the convent of La Merced was taken over by the Royal Navy as a storehouse and apartments for the victualling clerks. In due course, the street became known as Irish Town.

The original Irish residents were probably Irish women immigrants who came to Gibraltar in late 1727 and early 1728. They were sent out to provide female company for the troops. The street is currently a location for a synagogue, a former meat market, former warehouses and a merchant house – an example of this can be seen in Sacarello’s coffee shop. The ground floor was a merchant’s shop and the first floor was a store, accessed from the street by a winch on the exterior of the building.

Probably the most significant public building on Irish Town is the former Victorian police station of 1864 and was the headquarters of the Royal Gibraltar Police until 1984.

The bustling commercial Irish Town, in the early 20th century, included tobacco factories, coffee roasting works, and many shipping offices. The character of the street changed in the latter 20th century when the street was pedestrianised. In addition to its traditional activities and its many shops, the street embraced a new leisure and gastronomic character with its numerous shops, bars and restaurants.

Jews’ Gate Cemetery
An old Jewish Cemetery, used up until 1848, tucked away behind the trees, a fascinating piece of history that reflects the important role the Jewish people have played in moulding Gibraltar’s history.

John Mackintosh Hall
The John Mackintosh Hall Cultural Centre was opened by the Governor and Commander in Chief General Sir Dudley Ward on the 8th April 1964, containing a public library, a theatre / conference Hall, gymnasium, spacious halls for exhibitions and other public functions, and a wing for education. In the course of time, ideas about the use of the building have been modified, certain rooms have been put to entirely new uses, and an increasing emphasis has been given to adult and cultural activities.

The library now occupies the entire east side of the building and the theatre which was originally thought of as a multi-purpose school hall has changed in character so that it is now better suited to conferences – being fully equipped with simultaneous translation equipment – lectures, music and drama. It has fixed seating and additional space in the circle. It is fully air conditioned and provides for stage productions with modern lighting and equipment, whilst not claiming to be a professional theatre.

King’s Bastion
The King’s Bastion Leisure Centre, a fusion of history, heritage and leisure, offers an array of social activities open daily and is a non-smoking zone which operates a zero tolerance policy.

FACILITIES
– Amusement Arcade – selection of arcade machines for all ages plus pool tables
– Internet Lounge – 8 internet stations & chill out area with sofas
– Reception & management offices – information desk, suggestions, complaints, lost and found property
– King’s Bowl & Bar (14 lane bowling & 4 lane junior bowling)
– Rock Bastion Restaurant – full dining facilities with menu choice – Cafeteria / Shop
– Fitness Gym
– Ice Rink (50 ice skaters at any one time)
– Cinema exits to South and North Terraces leading to South Terrace
– Boyd’s Wine Bar & Lounge – serves alcoholic drinks to adults only
– Events area
– Disco provides dancing area
– Just For Kids – Children’s play area

Lord Nelson Memorial
Outside Trafalgar Cemetery stands a life-size, bronze statue of Lord Nelson by British sculptor John Doubleday. Erected by the Government of Gibraltar on the 200th anniversary of The Battle of Trafalgar and unveiled by the Chief Minister, The Hon. Peter Caruana in October 2005. The cemetery opposite the monument has tombs of two sailors who died as a consequence of wounds inflicted during the Battle of Trafalgar 21 October 1805.

Mario Finlayson Art Gallery
Since the formation of the Calpe Artists Society in 1954, the local art fraternity had dreamt of the setting up of a Gibraltar National Art Gallery to exhibit and celebrate the work of highly talented local artists. A location was sought for the gallery, and it was decided that there would be no better place for it than the City Hall, a historical building of grandeur and beauty. The Housing Department, which had occupied the building for many years, was thus moved to another location and works commenced on a refurbishment programme to accommodate the art gallery.

Gibraltarian artist Mario Finlayson BEM was, for many years, a leading and staunch campaigner in the quest for a National Art Gallery in Gibraltar. In January 2015, Gibraltar Cultural Services, on behalf of the Ministry of Culture, organised an art exhibition dedicated to the artistic life and works of Mario Finlayson, now considered the doyen of Gibraltar’s fine arts, having dedicated his whole life to the cause. At the inauguration of this exhibition, the Chief Minister of Gibraltar, The Hon Fabian Picardo QC MP, announced that the Gallery would be be named “The Mario Finlayson National Art Gallery”.

Monument of General Eliott
General Don had commissioned a memorial of George Augustus Eliott, 1st Baron Heathfield in 1815, which did not materialise in the form initially requested. A colossal statue of General Eliott, carved from the bowsprit of the Spanish ship San Juan Nepomuceno, taken at the Battle of Trafalgar was first created. That statue was taken to the Governor’s residence, The Convent, where it stands today, being replaced by the present bronze bust in 1858. This statue is guarded for four 18th-century howitzers.

O’Hara’s Battery
O’Hara’s Battery is located at the highest point of the Rock of Gibraltar. This battery owes its name to General Charles O’Hara, Governor of Gibraltar between 1795 and 1802. General O’Hara considered that, if he could raise a tower on this summit south of the Rock, he could observe the movements of the enemy in the port of Cádiz, located 60 miles away (about 100 km).

Its tower was constructed, but it was not successful, reason why the garrison denominated this construction O’Haras’s Folly (the madness of O’Hara). It survived until 1888, when the discussion about its imminent demolition made it the object of a bet between the garrison artillerymen and the artillery officers of HMS Wasp. The HSP Wasp used its masts and rigging to raise its cannons at high altitude and started bombing the tower. The sixth shot destroyed it completely … So they could leave with the honor intact. The first 6-inch cannon was mounted in 1890, but was replaced in 1901 by a 9.2-inch cannon with a range of 29,000 yards (26 km), aided to some extent by its height above sea level.

Outdoor interpretation and green area at Europa Point
A new outdoor interpretation and green area has recently opened at Europa Point at the former site of ‘Le Farol’ outlet. The location has been transformed into an open leisure area whilst the existing magazine on the site displays panels with information on the heritage and wildlife both of Europa Point and the nearby Gorham’s Cave Complex World Heritage site. There are paths throughout the site as well as benches, affording magnificent views across the Strait. Furthermore, flora of the area have been implemented and will shortly be supplemented with other hardy local species currently being grown off-site and in the surrounds.

Parliament House
In 1817 local merchants raised money by public subscription to construct a building to house the Exchange and Commercial Library. In 1807, Gibraltar merchants had founded a library in Bedlam Court, as they were denied membership of the Garrison Library, it being available only to members of the British garrison in the city (the Garrison Library functioned not only as a library, but as a club, owned and run by and for military officers; civilians were excluded, regardless of their prominence). Ten years later, in 1817, they erected a new building on the east side of the square. It housed not only a library, but also an auction room, and became the meeting place of local merchants. It became the Legislative Council and was inaugurated as such by the Duke of Edinburgh on 23 November 1950. Under the 1969 Constitution, the House of Assembly was established, superseding the Legislative Council. The first session of the House of Assembly, was opened in August 1969 by the then Governor Admiral Varyl Begg. The building was renamed Parliament House in 2007.

Re-Enactment Society
The Ceremony of the Keys is performed once a year by the Royal Gibraltar Regiment and re-enacted every Saturday morning at midday by the Gibraltar Re-enactment Association. Since the capture of the Rock in 1704, the Keys of Gibraltar have symbolised the possession of the Fortress by Great Britain.

The Keys have come to be regarded as the seals of office of the Governor and as such are handed over from one Governor to the next. During the Great Siege (1779-1783) the Governor General Elliot, wore the Keys at his belt constantly except when he handed them to the Port Sergeant. As the Sunset Gun was fired, the Port Sergeant, accompanied by an armed escort, would lock the gates in the North Wall at Landport, Waterport and Chatham Wicket. The Keys would be returned to the Governor.

The following morning the Port Sergeant would collect the keys again, re-open the gates and hand back the keys to the Governor for safe keeping. After peace was restored in 1783, drums and fifes accompanied the Port Sergeant and his escort to warn aliens to leave the Rock before the gates were closed. This procedure was carried out each evening without interruption for approximately 140 years and was discontinued after the First World War.

The event was then revived as a ceremony in 1933.

The Re-enactment Association sometimes vary their ceremony to their already very popular march down Main Street by incorporating a volley of gunfire from their muskets, the Napoleonic era Land Pattern Musket, aka Brown Bess and sometimes change their red and white uniforms to that of other regiments from more recent periods of Gibraltar’s rich military history.

Rooke Monument
This statue of Admiral Sir George Rooke who commanded the allied naval forces at the capture of Gibraltar was erected by the Government of Gibraltar, the Gibraltar Heritage Trust and the Friends of Gibraltar Heritage Society on the occasion of the 300th anniversary of British Gibraltar and was unveiled on the 29th November 2004.

Royal Engineers’ Monument
Presented to the people of Gibraltar by the Corps of Royal Engineers to commemorate the continuous service given by the Corps on the Rock of Gibraltar from 1704, and the formation here in 1772 of the first Body of Soldiers of the Corps, then known as the Company of Royal Artificers 26th March 1994.

Royal Marines’ Memorial
This monument marks the enduring link between Gibraltar and the Royal Marines and was dedicated in 2009 by the Commandant General Royal Marines. On 21st July 1704, the Prince of Hesse Darmstadt led some British and Dutch marines ashore near here to serve the isthmus and lay siege to the Garrison of Gibraltar following a naval assault on the New Mole, the Garrison surrendered on 26th July. Following the capture, the marines formed the largest contingent on the Rock and bore the brunt of the fighting with Spanish and French troops. Because British marines (awarded the title Royal in 1802) subsequently fought in so many actions around the globe, in 1827 King George IV decided that their colours would in future bear the symbol of “the great globe itself” and that henceforth the only battle honour on Royal Marines’ colours would be that of Gibraltar!

Sikorski Memorial
The Sikorski memorial plaque was originally sited at the east end of the runway and unveiled on the 12 January 1945. It was relocated to Europa Point and funded by the republic of Poland; inaugurated at Europa Point on 4th July 2013. General Wladyslaw Sikorski, the first Prime Minister and the first Commander in Chief of the Polish army in exile in 1939-1943, was at the time a symbol of the continuing Polish resistance to the Nazis, continuing despite the loss of own territory.

He was a symbol of Polish hopes for victory and regaining independence. This war time hero lost his life in tragic air crash in 1943 as his plane took off from Gibraltar during WWII. The Roman Catholic Cathedral in Main Street also has a memorial to this Polish patriot – this memorial is situated by the left altar. There are also two plaques, one in English and the other in Polish at the Great Siege Tunnels because the only witness to the accident watched from a lookout post at the end of the tunnel.

The Convent
When the Christians captured The Rock in 1462, a number of religious orders established themselves in Gibraltar. Franciscan fathers took up residency in the area of what today we call The Convent, in about 1480. In 1531, Francisco de Madrid paid for a chapel and for a considerable extension to the earlier Convent.

Shortly after the capture of Gibraltar by British and Dutch Forces for one of two pretenders to the Spanish throne in 1704, the Franciscan friars left. The building, probable slightly damaged during the capture, stood abandoned until 1728 when it was taken over as the palace for the military Governor. The name “ Convent” from the Spanish “Convento” (used in Spanish both for monasteries and for convents) has been used almost continuously since the first convent in the 15th century. Between 1903 and 1943 it was called “Government House”. We owe the reinstatement of the historic name to King George VI, who so ordered after his visit to Gibraltar during the 2nd WW.

The siege of 1727 caused much damage to the old building but this was small by comparison to the severe damage caused during the Great Siege (1779/83) from enemy bombardments both from land and from the sea. Major restoration no doubt commenced after the Great Siege but the most striking alterations were effected in 1863/64 under Lieutenant General Sir William Codrington KCB, the then Governor. This Governor had the Banqueting Hall rebuilt and the facade overlooking Main Street was totally changed from the back door it had been to the new attractive front entrance we now enjoy. The main staircase by the entrance probably belongs to this major renovation.

In 1951 the SS “Bedenham”, an ammunition ship, blew up in the inner harbour, but only at a distance of 360 yards. The Convent and its chapel suffered badly as did much of Gibraltar. The Banqueting Hall suffered irreparable damage to its three stained glass windows (1863).

Like many ancient buildings, the old Convent attracts a story or two but perhaps the best known is the one about the Spanish nun brought to this monastery to be executed in a rather bizarre fashion and thus becoming The Convent’s resident ghost.

The Great East-side Sand Slopes and former Water Catchments
The Great Eastside Sand Slopes form an extensive area (approximately 45 hectares) of largely consolidated windblown sands that extend from above Sandy Bay in the south to Catalan Bay to the North. These sands, which contain a high percentage of uniform quartz grains, originated outside Gibraltar, since there are almost no quartz-bearing strata on the Rock. The sand slope was formed during the Quaternary period, when the area to the east was a dry sandy plain and wind action deposited the sand upon existing scree breccias and boulder conglomerate (Rose & Rosenbaum, 1991).

At one time, the Talus slopes to the north and south, together with the Sand Slopes, formed one contiguous mass. However, the Catalan and Sandy Bay quarries, opened by the Admiralty in 1895 to provide material for the Dockyard extensions, isolated the Eastside Sand Slopes from the Talus slopes. The talus extremities, located below the major cliff faces – namely Spyglass and Rock Gun – seem to have accumulated the largest quantity of rock boulder material. This has formed the conglomerate scree breccias but is still covered by a sandy layer.

The central portion, where the Eastside Sand Slopes are located, has undergone less rock deposition from above, but has a greater accumulation of windblown sands, substantially differentiating this geological structure from the adjacent Talus slopes. Drawings from the 1800s depicting Catalan Bay show that the Sand Slope was almost devoid of vegetation and this confirms the presence of goats and grazing activity. In 1903, the City’s Chief Engineer came up with a plan to cover the 10 acre slope with corrugated iron sheets to collect potable water. This resulted in most of the Sand Slope habitat being lost and with it, a number of plant and animal species including the Black Wheatear (Oenanthe leucura) which probably relied on this habitat.

The water catchments were deemed obsolete in 1991 with the advent of desalination plants in Gibraltar, thus promulgating their removal and restoration of the habitat in the 1990s. The restoration process was extremely laborious and consisted of the removal of the corrugated iron sheets, followed by the installation of a biodegradable mesh to stabilise the slope. A reseeding programme followed thereafter, using native grasses and shrubs in close consultation with the GONHS. This was carried out by experts from the Gibraltar Botanic Gardens. In addition to the removal of the water catchment and the reseeding of the slopes, a complex network of strong rockfall protection fencing was installed.

World Heritage Status
The Gorham’s Cave Complex is the name given to the area covering some 28 hectares on the eastside of Gibraltar from sea level to the top of the Rock. In July 2016, it was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its exceptional testimony to the occupation, cultural traditions and material culture of Neanderthal and early modern human populations through a period spanning approximately 120,000 years. The striking cluster of sea level caves contain archaeological deposits that provide evidence of Neanderthal and early modern human occupation of Gibraltar, and the landscape setting and natural species which assist in presenting the natural resources and environmental context, including climatic conditions, of Neanderthal life. The Gibraltar Nature Reserve, including the Great Eastside Sand Slopes, form part of the buffer zone to the World Heritage site and together they represent over 40% of the territory of Gibraltar.

Water Catchments – A colossal feat of engineering
The first catchment area of this type (an entirely original idea conceived by the then City Engineer of Gibraltar) was constructed in 1903 on the sand slopes of the east side of the Rock, which has an average inclination of 1½ to 1. These slopes had big boulders embedded in them, which were blasted away, the surface trimmed as even as possible and a channel and footpath constructed at the lower perimeter of the collecting area. Into these trimmed sand slopes timber piles 91500mm x 150mm x 40mm) were driven their full length, to these a timber framing of purlins (75mm x 75mm x 4500mm) and rafters (75mm x 75mm x 2400mm) were nailed and on these, corrugated galvanised iron sheets 2400mm x 900mm were secured by means of drive-screws all round their edges. All timbers had been previously treated with creosote forced in at a pressure of 170 lbs per square inch.

Roughly, each hectare covered, took: 5928 rafters, 1112 purlins, 1161 piles; 5928 sheets, 2920 kgs of screws and 850 kgs of washers.

Channels: The collecting channels were designed to convey a maximum of 102 mm of rain per hour on an area of about 14.97 hectares (this being the area available for eventual conversion into catchments). The access footpaths along the channels were incorporated in the design to act as a relief channel fed by an overflow system and itself overflowing through pipes down to sea. The main channel in the east west tunnel had a valve via which water could be diverted into a natural fissure and eventually down to the sea. Water from the first rains, which washed the dirt from the catchments, was flushed away in this manner.

Reservoirs: Between 1911 and 1914 reservoir No 5, of 9,091 cubic metres capacity, was excavated from the rock by means of enlarging a tunnel driven parallel to the channel tunnel and some 7.6 metres below it. The tunnel was enlarged on either side to form a chamber some 12.2 metres high 13.1 metres wide and 121.9 metres in length. After the excavation works were completed and all loose rocks removed, the floor was concreted in two layers, a 150 mm levelling layer of mass concrete followed by a 150 mm slab of 1:2:4 concrete using Portland cement and 35mm stone as coarse aggregate. The walls were constructed using two skins each of 114 mm space between the back wall and the rock face was filled with mass concrete and the 150 mm cavity filled with a Portland cement, 1:1 mortar mixed with 5% water proofing agent. The floor received a 50 mm Portland cement, 1:1 mortar screed and finally rendered with a 19 mm layer containing 5% of water proofing agent. The walls were cement plastered in 3 coats using a 3:1, 2:1 and 1:1 with 5% water proofing agent mix. The last layer of wall plaster and floor render was steel trowelled. Nothing was done to the roof as the rock over the span used is self-supporting.

The catchment area was increased by a further 5.66 hectares and, in 1928, a further reservoir (No 6) was constructed similar to reservoir No 5, but of half its length and with a capacity of 4,545 cubic metres. Each reservoir is connected to the main channel by means of large diameter pipes with valves to control the entry of water into them. They are now also connected to the pumping mains conveying water from other sources. Between 1928 and 1945 four more reservoirs (Nos 7 to 10) were excavated from the rock adding a further 18,181 cubic metres to the storage capacity. It is interesting to note that reservoir No 10, which had been excavated but not completed at the time of World War II, contained a barracks built to house a detachment of the “Black Watch” regiment under bombproof conditions. The construction of these reservoirs follow the original pattern except that they are offset from the pilot tunnel thus providing access to their supply mains. Outlet valves for supply and cleansing are operated from within the reservoirs by means of long spindled hand wheels.

Each reservoir has an overflow onto the pilot tunnel and via the tunnel into the natural fissure. The last reservoirs (Nos 11 and 12) were constructed 1958-1961 at a lower level, reached from the east side, opposite Catalan Bay. These were constructed to receive rain from a further extension of 4.05 hectares of catchment at a lower level on the east side slopes. These brought up the total number of potable water reservoirs to 12 plus the Moorish Castle reservoir providing a total storage capacity of some 72,727 cubic metres.

Following the ceasing of operations, of the catchments as a source of potable water the reservoirs are currently used as service reservoirs and as storage reservoirs providing substantial water reserves.

The Great Siege Tunnels
The labyrinth of tunnels known as The Great Siege Tunnels are perhaps the most impressive defence system devised by man.

At the end of the Great Siege in 1783, the defeated Commander of the French and Spanish troops, the Duc de Crillon, on being shown the fortifications that had led to the defeat of his troops, commented “These works are worthy of the Romans”. This comment highlights the ingenuity of those men who against all odds endured the onslaught of the advancing forces and were still able to devise a unique system of defence which afforded them victory.

It was during the war of American Independence, when France and Spain made an all-out attempt to recapture the Rock from the British in Gibraltar’s 14th Siege, always called The Great Siege, which lasted from July 1779 to February 1783, that the then Governor General Eliott (later called Baron Heathfield of Gibraltar) is said to have offered a reward to anyone who could tell him how to get guns on to a projection from the precipitous northern face of the Rock known as the Notch.

Sergeant Major Ince, a member of the Company of Military Artificers, forerunners of the Royal Engineers, suggested that this could be done by tunnelling. Permission was granted, and Sergeant Major Ince started work under the direction of Lieutenant J. Evelegh, a Royal Engineer, Aide De Camp to the Governor, on May 25th, 1782.

The tunnellers relied on the strength of their arms, on their skills with a sledgehammer and a crowbar, and were also aided by gunpowder for blasting. In five weeks 18 men had driven a tunnel 8 feet square (2.40sq.m) by 82 feet long (25m) into the Rock. It is interesting to compare this with the record of a fully mechanised tunnelling company in Gibraltar during World War II, who in a week advanced 180 feet (55m).

Originally there was no intention of mounting guns in this gallery, but as the work progressed the fumes from repeated blasting almost suffocated the miners, so it was decided to open a vent to let air into the tunnel. Almost at once it was realised what an excellent embrasure this would make for a gun, so one was mounted without waiting to reach the ‘Notch ‘. Other embrasures were cut and guns mounted, and by the time the Siege ended in February 1783, the tunnel was 370 feet (113m) long and had four guns mounted in it. This first gallery was called ‘Windsor Gallery’. Sergeant Major Ince did not stop there – he went on to tunnel two other galleries called “Kings and Queens Lines” lower down the north face of the Rock.

Work did not stop with the end of the Siege, but instead of continuing straight towards the ‘Notch’, a tunnel was driven downwards and a large chamber opened under the ‘Notch’ called St. George’s Hall, where a battery of seven guns was installed. The Cornwallis Chamber was also excavated at this time. It was in St. George’s hall that Lord Napier of Magdala – Governor of Gibraltar – is said to have given a banquet in honour of General Grant, ex-president of the United States of America.

In gratitude to Sergeant Major Ince, he was given a Commission and granted a plot of land on the Upper Rock, still known today as Ince’s Farm. In addition, the Duke of Kent – Gibraltar’s Royal Governor and father of Queen Victoria – gave him a valuable horse, in 1802.

The entrance to the Upper Galleries is dominated by a Victorian 64-pounder cannon. There are other Victorian guns in the Galleries dating back to 1850, as well as an original 18th century cannon.

During the Second World War, the Royal Engineers (originally the Artificer Company during the Great Siege) including a Canadian contingent, achieved wonderful feats of engineering, adding some 33 miles (52km) of tunnels.

SERGEANT- MAJOR HENRY INCE – Source: Gibraltar Heritage Trust

Henry Ince, a Cornishman by birth was one of the first members of Green’s Company, being appointed a Sergeant on the date of formation. He was promoted Sergeant-Major in September 1781, and served not only throughout the Siege but for long afterwards. He certainly left an indelible mark on the history of Gibraltar where he had first served as a Private in the 2nd Regiment of Foot. A special rate of pay was granted to him, besides the 2s. 10d. a day as foreman.

His charge included the constant development of the Galleries. He retired in 1791, after 30 years service, but continued at the works as an overseer. He lived in a farm at the top of the Rock, which still bears his name, and became a notable figure in Gibraltar. His contribution to Gibraltar’s successful defence was considerable. Sergeant-Major Ince died on the 9th October 1808 in Gittisham and was also buried there on 14th October 1808. He died at the age of 72 years.

The Lime Kiln
Limestone has been a source of construction material in Gibraltar since the very first city was built in the twelfth century. The Arab chronicler Ibn-Juzayy commented how the white houses of Gibraltar contrasted against the red sands that were still visible in those days of the fourteenth century. Limestone has therefore been traditionally used as a raw material for mortar, used in construction. Lime Kilns, which cooked the limestone to make lime, have been around since medieval times for the production of lime mortar for construction purposes.

They were also used extensively in the 18th and 19th Centuries, and Gibraltar’s lime kilns date from this time. There were many kilns located on different parts of the Rock, but today there is one left, located on Willis’s Road. Three types of lime were produced: White lime (used in agriculture), Slaked lime (used as weak building material) and Quicklime (used in construction works).

The latter was produced by heating crushed rock up in a kiln. The end product was a very corrosive substance that was used in the old days by the authorities to dispose of bodies quickly. Quicklime was also used to make whitewash which was regularly used to paint houses and patios, a practice that seemingly goes back to the days of the fourteenth century when the Arab chronicler described his view from the Bay. Lime Kiln Steps in the Upper Town takes its name from the activity of lime production.

Limestone and lime kilns were an important economic commodity that generated activity in many trades such as stone masonry. The need for lime stone and lime mortar in Gibraltar created a thriving group of trades and industries working with lime, and also a number of related activities such as charcoal vendors who supplied the fuel for the kilns.

The Moorish Castle
The fortifications on and around the site of the Moorish Castle were first built in 1160, or earlier. These were, however, destroyed when the Spanish re-conquered Gibraltar from 1309-1333. The Tower of Homage, its main feature, dominates the hillside and the landward approach to Gibraltar. A rebuilt tower dates primarily from about 1333 AD when Abu’l Hassan recaptured Gibraltar from the Spanish. On another occasion, the Count of Niebla attacked the castle, was captured by the Medieval defenders and his body was suspended from the walls in a barcina, a net for carrying straw.

The Tower of Homage proudly displays the battle scars inflicted during the various sieges. Here a Spanish governor held out for five months against the Duke of Medina Sidonia, who took Gibraltar from his own sovereign, Queen Isabel of Spain. In 1540, hundreds of people found safety inside the castle when Turkish pirates ransacked Gibraltar. The lower castle formerly stretched all the way down to Casemates Square, the Grand Battery area and the Old Mole. It is interesting to note that the courtyard of the Moorish Castle served as a prison up until 2010.

Wellington Memorial
Three years after the opening of the Alameda, on April 1819, Sir George Don, accompanied by the Naval, Military and Civil officers of the Garrison, went to the gardens to unveil the bust of The Duke of Wellington. A Guard of Honour and four bands attended. The monument had been funded by deducting a day’s pay from all the members of the garrison. The bust had been cast in bronze from guns captured by the Duke of Wellington. It stands on a marble pillar that had been brought from the Roman ruins of Lepida (Libya).