Natural Attractions of Gibraltar
Alameda Wildlife Conservation Park
Nestled in the beautiful Gibraltar Botanic Gardens, the Alameda Wildlife Conservation Park is home to a collection of both exotic and native species. The park is the only wildlife park in Gibraltar. They care for exotic animals confiscated by Gibraltar customs, unwanted exotic pets and animals such as the cotton-topped tamarin, on loan from international zoos, to raise awareness about important endangered species through conservation education.
An essential role of the park is the conservation of threatened species – partaking in international conservation projects supporting species in the wild.
Through selected captive breeding programmes, they also hope to play an important part in the international effort to conserve rare and endangered species.
Apes’ Den / Barbary Macaques
Perhaps Gibraltar’s most important tourist attraction, the Barbary Macaques are normally found in North Africa, but their presence in Gibraltar probably dates from the early days of the British garrison when it is presumed that they were imported, inevitably finding the rough limestone cliffs and scrub vegetation a congenial habitat. In fact, many legends have grown up around them. One is that they travelled from their native Morocco via a subterranean tunnel starting at St Michael’s Cave leading down underneath the Strait of Gibraltar.
Another legend claims that, should the macaques ever disappear, the British will leave Gibraltar. During the last war, natural causes had diminished the macaque numbers alarmingly. Fortunately, Sir Winston Churchill took a personal interest and additional animals were imported from Morocco. Today, in addition to the pack resident at Apes’ Den, there are other packs living wild on the steep slopes of the Rock. Gibraltar does not wish to lessen ‘the monkey experience’ but experts have warned that too much human interaction is harmful to these wild animals.
Primarily because we want them to remain living as they are, in a semi-wild state, we strongly advise you not to get too close, feed or touch them. Finally, because they are wild animals, they may react violently and have been known to attack and inflict serious bites. By all means take photographs but please allow the monkeys to live a natural, free life for their benefit and the enjoyment of all. Just keep a safe distance, do not shout or make sudden movements.
Barbary Partridge
Alectoris barbara (Bonnaterre) / Barbary Partridge / Perdiz Moruna.
It is unknown whether this species was an original component of the Rock’s avifauna or whether it was introduced by man. The question is perhaps best left open in view of the fact that a number of other North African species figure in the Rock’s fauna and flora and are absent from the Spanish hinterland. Although it is likely that it was introduced to the Rock, as assumed by Lifor (1866), Seoane (1870), Berris (1964) and Valrie (1965) the only evidence for this is circumstantial. The Governor’s Order Book records that the importation of “game from Barbary” for shooting purposes was authorised in 1749 by General H.Bland, then Governor of Gibraltar. This introduction did not definitely include partridges but the possibility arises that the species was introduced by man then or that an indigenous population was reinforced by birds from Morocco. Alectoris partridges were present during the late Pleistocene but their specific identity has not been established conclusively.
The first recorded observations of Barbary Partridges at Gibraltar are those of Rev.John White in 1771 (or Holt-White 1901). The species then ranged widely over the Rock but now it has a restricted distribution, chiefly in the less disturbed areas of the Upper Rock, Windmill Hill and the slopes above Catalan Bay. The typical habitat is low scrub and open rocky slopes. It is resident with a population of about 30 pairs. Coveys of up to 25 birds form outside the breeding season.
The species is sedentary, but a number of observations from Spain near Gibraltar (Gonzalo-Diez 1958, Trigo de Yarto 1960, Nisbet1960 b. Brosse & Jacquernard-Brosse 1962, and J Croxell pers.comm.) suggest that some dispersal from the Rock may have occurred. Such a range expansion would have been easier for partridges in the past. When the isthmus was entirely vegetated and the urban belt of La Linea was absent, but it is probably still possible for partridges to leave the Rock, although this has never been observed and would be a rare occurrence if it happens at all. It seems most probable that Barbary Partridges seen in Spain near the Rock were originally directly introduced to Spanish Estates.
Source: The Birds of Gibraltar by John E Cortes, J Clive Finlayson, Ernest F J Garcia, Mario A J Mosquera.
A REPRIEVE FOR THE ROCK’S PARTRIDGES
Building a satellite ground station on prime nesting sites, should spell disaster for the Rock’s declining population of Barbary Partridges but an agreement between the Gibraltar Ornithological and Natural History Society and project developer ASC Systems could have Gibraltar’s Barbary Partridges clucking in glee.
The shy partridges already had to put up with military exercises, an increasing number of feral cats and dogs walked by some private individuals on their stronghold of Windmill Hill Flats, so the proposed development of a satellite ground station by ASC Systems, resulting in the loss of habitat from two pairs of partridges, could well have been the final straw.
But following hard negotiations, the Gibraltar Ornithological and Natural History Society has obtained an ‘inprinciple’ agreement from ASC for the funding of a Barbary Partridge recovery programme and the creation of new partridge habitat to compensate for this loss.
The programme, which will involve clearing vegetation on the Upper Rock and captive breeding of local partridges for release into the wild will cost in the region of 60,000 pounds over four years. After many years of being squeezed into ever decreasing habitat, this is good news indeed for this timid bird which will often run for cover rather than taking flight.
The Barbary Partridge, Alectoris Barbara, belongs to the family Phasianidae, and is distinguished from other partridges by its blue-grey bib framed with chestnut brown. It is described as having ‘a brown crown/ventral nape which shows up well on raising, resembling a Mohican haircut’. The partridge’s plump body and short bill are typical of Gallinaceous birds, which include pheasants and grouse. Gibraltar’s Barbary Partridge will never be prized for its song which is described as a ‘series of shrill, broken monosyllable clucks with interposed double notes’. Its meat however might be a little more appealing to some, and that is possibly how the birds originally came to the Rock.
Predominantly a North African species, Gibraltar is the only mainland European location for a self sustaining wild population (they are also found offshore in the Canaries and Sardinia).
It is unclear whether the birds were imported during the Moorish occupation of the Rock, brought over by the British in the mid 1700s as part of a consignment of ‘game from Barbary’ or if the population is indigenous. Possibly the answer lies with a combination of all three. Fossil remains of Alectoris partridges dating from the late Pleistocene epock ( 1.6 to 0.01 million years ago) have been found on the Rock, but it is possible that these birds were ancestors of the red-legged partridge. Alectoris rifa, which is common in Spain but not found in Gibraltar.
Genetic Research as part of the programme agreed with ASC Systems is planned to try to determine whether the Gibraltarian Barbary Partridges are genetically different from the population in North Africa and elsewhere and this should establish their origins. The first record of Barbary Partridges on the Rock was noted by the Reverend John White in 1771 and at this time they were well established in the open scrub of the Upper Rock which was kept clear by grazing goats.
Their range and number have dwindled in recent years as a result of several factors. The first is loss of open vegetation due to the growth of dense scrub and woodland on the Rock. This denies the birds their preferred low scrub for nesting and open ground for foraging. Disturbances, illegal catching of young and heavy predation by feral cats has worsened the situation even further to the point that perhaps only 30 pairs remain.
It is hoped that the GONHS ACS programme will go some way to restoring the Barbary Partridge population of 200 years ago.
Birdwatching
MIGRATION
As the Strait of Gibraltar is the narrowest crossing point for birds migrating to and from Europe and Africa, the Rock offers unrivalled bird watching opportunities. 315 species of birds have been recorded, many of which are migratory. Gibraltar, at the head of the Strait, is a prominent headland, which accumulates migrants during the passage periods. The vegetation on the Rock, unique in southern Iberia, provides a temporary home for many species of migratory birds that stop to rest and feed before continuing migration for their crossing over the desert and sea. In spring they return to replenish before continuing their journeys to Western Europe, journeys that may take them as far as Greenland or Russia.
BIRD RINGING
Migration is a challenge within nature conservation work since many populations of birds regularly move over large areas, and problems en route or in the wintering quarters can result in declining breeding populations in areas far away. Many migratory birds are declining in numbers and detailed survey information about the annual movements, including important stop-over sites (i.e Gibraltar) and winter quarters, is a top conservation priority. This is where bird ringing comes in. The Gibraltar Ornithological & Natural History Society (GONHS) Ringing station & Field observation centre at Jew’s Gate engages in a bird ringing programme during Spring & autumn every year. The ringing being undertaken at this observatory is important in order to identify changes in the migration patterns of bird species, particularly in relation to factors such as climate change.
GIBRALTAR
During the late 19th century, it was quite possible to observe breeding species now absent from Gibraltar. Species such as Osprey & Bonelli’s Eagles used to breed on the cliffs on the eastern side of the rock. Sadly, these have now become extinct as a breeding species due to a combination of poisoning, disturbance, and the surge in Yellow-legged Gull population. Others such as Raven, Jackdaw and Black Wheatear disappeared as a result of habitat loss after the east side great sand slopes were destroyed and converted to a water catchment, covered by corrugated iron sheeting, a habitat which has since been regenerated. The Raven did make a comeback for several years in the recent past but is now again an irregular passage migrant.
Gibraltar lies in a strategic location for birdwatching. Migration of soaring birds & seabirds occurs almost year-round and the sheer numbers can be impressive in the peak seasons March-May & August-October. Birds of prey such as Honey Buzzards, Black Kites, Short-toed Eagles, Booted Eagles, Griffon Vultures, White Storks, Cory’s Shearwater & Audouin’s Gull pass in their thousands, with smaller numbers Egyptian & Griffon Vultures, Marsh, Hen and Montagu’s Harriers, Sparrowhawk, Common Buzzards, Ospreys, Eleonora’s Falcon, Black Storks and others. Regular seabirds include Cory’s and Balearic Shearwaters, Northern Gannets, Great Skuas, Mediterranean, Black-headed, Lesser Black-backed and Audouin’s Gull, Black & Sandwich Tern.
RESIDENT & BREEDING SPECIES
Because of the lack of natural fresh water streams and rivers in Gibraltar, a lot of the species you would expect to see across the border in nearby Spain often associated with such habitats such as Grey Wagtails, Nightgales, Cetti’s Warbler and others, are generally absent and only ever encountered on the rock during passage periods. Current resident and summer breeding species include European Shags, the only mainland site in Europe for Barbary Partridges, Peregrines Falcon, Common & Lesser Kestrels, Common, Pallid & Alpine Swifts, Blue Rock Thrush, House
Martin, Eagle Owl and thousands of Yellow-legged Gulls. A plethora of smaller songbirds such as Spotted Flycatcher, Sardianian Warbler, Blackcap, Blackbird, Greenfinch, Serin, Zitting Cisticola and many others also breed.
PASSAGE MIGRANTS
Spring & autumn Regular passage migrants include, Bee-eater, Hoopoe, Great Spotted Cuckoo, Turtle Dove, Northern & Black-eared Wheatears, Subalpine & Spectacled Warblers, Willow Warbler, Western Olivacious Warbler, Whinchat, Common Redstart, Tree & Tawny Pipit, Grasshopper Warbler, Reed Warbler, Orphean Warbler, Melodious Warbler, Ortolan Bunting to name just a few! More scare migrants include Lanner Falcon, Roller, Stone Curlew and others. For a more detailed species migration timetable in Gibraltar visit
WINTER
Wintering species include Alpine Accentor, Black Redstart, Robin, Tawny Owl, Woodcock, Skylark, Thekla Larks, Meadow Pipit, Dartford Warbler, Firecrest Zitting Cisticola, Stonechat and in the past have included species such as Wallcreeper & Yellow-browed Warbler.
VAGRANTS
Gibraltar’s strategic location and proximity to the African continent make it an ideal location to observe unusual species and this has resulted in sightings of vagrant species such as Purple Sandpiper, Common Eider, Rüppell’s Vulture, Pallid Harrier, Long-legged Buzzard, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Lanner Falcon, Allen’s Gallinule, Seebohm’s & Desert Wheatear, Calandra Lark, Siberian Chiffchaff & Red-breasted Flycatcher, Tristrams Warbler, African Chaffinch amongst many others. If you do happen to come across a species you suspect is unusual in Gibraltar, please contact GONHS on the link provided below, together with any photographs & descriptions.
SPECIES BY MONTHS
February – March.
Very good for the start of bird of prey migration including Black Kite, Short-toed Eagle & Egyptian Vulture. Cory’s Shearwaters in the straits.
March – April.
During late March to April there is a good variety of passage raptors including Black Kite, Egyptian Vulture, Short-toed Eagle, Marsh and Montagu’s Harriers, Buzzard, Booted Eagle and Osprey. Smaller spring migrants include Subalpine & Spectacled Warblers & Black-eared Wheatear and others.
April – May.
Are excellent for migrating passerines and large falls occur in the Strait area after bad weather. Those wanting to observe the greatest variety of species should visit during mid-April to mid-June. At this time birds are still migrating north and most of the summer visitors have arrived to breed. Among the interesting migrants these months include Montagu’s Harrier, Scops Owl, Red-necked Nightjar, Bee-eater, Roller, Hoopoe, Short-toed Lark, Tawny Pipit, Rufous Bush Robin, Northern & Black-eared Wheatears, Rock Thrush, Western Olivaceaous Warbler, Melodious Warbler, Spectacled Warbler, Subalpine Warbler, Orphean Warbler, Willow & Bonelli’s Warblers, Pied Flycatcher, Common Redstart, Woodchat Shrike, Ortolan Bunting and many others.
June.
June is good for Honey Buzzard and for other late bird of prey passage involving a lot of non-breeding individuals from species such as Griffon Vulture, Short-toed Eagle, Black Kite.
July – August.
July and August are probably the best seabird-watching months. There are large numbers of Balearic and Cory’s Shearwaters offshore and there is a large westward movement of thousands of Audouins’s Gull. Other seabirds likely at this time include Slender-billed Gull, Gull-billed Tern & Black Tern. July to August is also the peak of the southward migration of the White Stork, Black Kite and Common Swift and can be particularly impressive at times.
August – October.
The last week of August and the first ten days of September are the best for large numbers of raptors on migration, especially Honey Buzzard, Egyptian Vulture and Montagu’s Harrier. Black Storks and Short-toed and Booted Eagles follow at the end of September and in early October. The main passerine activity in autumn is in late September to mid-November when large falls occur after bad weather. Finch migration during October and early November is spectacular.
November – February.
The winter period is considered to be from November – February. The end of February is also an interesting time as summer migrants from the Africa arrive and the winter species are still present.
Commonwealth Park
Adjacent to King’s Bastion Leisure Centre and linked by a corridor through the solid wall lies as a beautifully landscaped park nestled within the old city walls which provides a peaceful green recreational area in the heart of town. The first trees, evergreen magnolias from Italy, were planted on 22 November 2013. The park itself was officially inaugurated and opened to the public on 12 June 2014.
Dolphin Watching & Boat Trips
A dolphin-watching trip is the most enjoyable way of seeing these fascinating mammals up close and there are two companies to choose from. The dolphins in the bay and strait area can be seen nearly any day, primarily the Common Dolphin, Bottlenose Dolphin and the Striped Dolphin.
Dolphins are very sociable animals, spending almost all of their time in the company of others of their species. The groups of dolphins can range from very few, to several hundred, living and working together. They will work together to gather food, help each other to sleep, to give birth to new infants or to assist when another dolphin is ill or injured. These cetaceans can be found in various haunts around the coast of Gibraltar where they feed on sardines, herring, squid, anchovies and flying fish and have been known to dive to a depth of about 280 metres.
Get to see the Rock from another point of view, see the caves on the East Side, enjoy the views of Gibraltar, Morocco, Spain.
Europa Point & Lighthouse
When the ancient mariners from the east arrived in this region in the eighth century BC, they homed in on the beacon which was the Rock and were attracted to large marine caverns close to these southern platforms. We know that Phoenicians and ancient Greeks came here. According to legend, Hercules passed through here to take the cattle of Geryon – his tenth labour – and opened up the strait, creating the pillars which received his name (Hercules to the Romans).
These pillars are still clearly identifiable today: the Rock of Gibraltar on one side and the Jbel Musa on the other. The legend matches the scientific reality although the timescales are somewhat different. The last time the strait opened up was around five million years ago and there were no humans around to watch it happen. It must have been a spectacular event indeed. The Mediterranean had been land-locked for a very long time and had evaporated. Then as a fissure developed where the Strait of Gibraltar is today, the Atlantic gushed in filling the Mediterranean basin in just one hundred years, with a huge ten thousand foot waterfall at the entrance to the strait.
The Gibraltar Trinity Lighthouse, now fully automated is the only one regulated by Trinity House outside mainland United Kingdom. It dates back to 1841 and stands 49 metres above sea level with a range of approximately 37 kilometres.
Flora & Fauna
Gibraltar’s natural history, like so many aspects of the Rock, is the richer for Gibraltar’s strategic position. For all lovers of nature, Gibraltar is full of surprises. Much of the Upper Rock has been declared a Nature Reserve with the aim of conserving its natural environment, unspoilt and beautiful, for future generations. In terms of birdlife, indeed, it is of international importance. During the long migratory seasons in spring and autumn, Gibraltar is for millions of birds, an invaluable staging post linking Europe and Africa.
The number of individual birds, especially birds of prey, exceeds even that found at the Bosphorous. To birdwatchers, high season extends from February to June, and from July to October, although even winter is excellent. In addition to these passage migrants, the Rock has an unusually large and varied list of resident species, including one – the Barbary Partridge found nowhere else on the mainland of Europe.
Apart from the Barbary Macaques, common mammals include rabbits and bats (including the large mouse-eared bat, the size of a kestrel). Dolphins such as the Common, Bottlenosed and Striped varieties provide an excuse for a boat trip out to the bay, where they may often be seen at play. Insects are abundant. In season, the skies are shared by large numbers of migratory butterflies of painted lady, while on the ground the praying mantis may capture even small lizards.
The Rock is home to several notable reptile species among them the Octellated Lizard (Europe’s largest) and the scrub-loving large Psammodromus. Snakes include the long Horseshoe Whip Snake, which is the most common snake on the Rock. Spring within the Nature Reserve, Upper Rock sees the appearance of the unique Gibraltar Candytuft. The alkaline soil, which differs from that of the surrounding countryside, encourages the growth of many shrubs, including the ubiquitous wild olive and other aromatic species. Among the herbs, rosemary, sage and lavenders add fragrance to the scent-laden air.
The lower Rock is unashamedly Mediterranean, its more plentiful soil allowing the fig and almond to flourish among palms and bougainvillaea. A wealth of blooms and blossoms makes Gibraltar a paradise as much for the serious botanist as for the less demanding rambler among peaceful, leafy lanes.
Gibraltar Botanic Gardens, The Alameda Gardens
The spectacular Alameda Gardens were first opened to the public in 1816 and there are a number of commemorative busts and cannons which date back to the 18th and 19th century on view. For most visitors, however, it is the beauty of the plants and trees which make the Alameda such a magical place; many are native species while others are imported. At certain times of the year, various cultural events take place in the gardens’ open-air theatre. Tours of the Botanic Gardens are also available. Two important monuments can be viewed here, but pride of place goes to the General Elliot Column and the impressive bronze ordnance at its feet. At the entrance are two of the four Russian guns given to Gibraltar by Britain, for Gibraltar’s help during the Crimean War, in 1858.
The main plants of the Alameda Gardens from the earliest days were the Stone Pine, the wild Olive, and the Dragon Tree. It would appear that some of these trees, which still survive, pre-date the opening of the garden and thus are at least 200 years old. Planting subsequent to this had included notably species from South Africa (e.g. Plumbago capensis, Aloe arborescens, capensis, Tecomaria capensis) and Australia (e.g. Melaleuca decussata), possibly as a result of shipping contact between Gibraltar and the other colonies en route to Australia.
Dragon Tree: The Dragon Tree comes from the Atlantic Islands of the Canaries, Madeira and Cape Verde. It is an unusual member of the lily family. The red resin which quickly crystalises was used medicinally and known as Dragon’s Blood. The smooth grey bark is reminiscent of an elephant’s hide. Its panicles of showy white flowers appear irregularly in summer and produce bright orange berry-like fruit in winter. The oldest dragon tree in the gardens is probably about 300 years old, though there are claims that they live upwards of 1000 years.
Stone Pine: This is a native of the Mediterranean where it favours sandy coastal locations. The pine nuts produced in the rounded cones are edible. Roasted and sugar-coated these ‘piñones’ are a delicacy. The cones and nuts in the gardens are often eaten by frugivorous tree rats before they fall to the ground. The outer surface of the bark of this tree in the gardens is about 200 years old. The Aleppo Pine is less common in the gardens. It has pointed cones, winged, inedible seeds and more finely marked bark than the Stone Pine. There is one large Canary Island Pine in the upper part of the garden.
Wild Olive: The most common tree in the Alameda, the wild olive, produces small white flowers in summer followed by small black olives in winter. Too bitter for human consumption, it is a favourite food of wintering birds, including blackcaps. The wood is strong and hard wearing. This tree is the ancestor of the cultivated olive tree.
Nettle Tree: Related to the elms, this tree has nettle-shaped leaves that do not sting. Probably native to Gibraltar where it will have formed part of the ancient woodland that covered what is now the town area. A deciduous tree with bright green foliage in spring that turns darker as summer progresses. Its grey bark is smooth. There is a Nettle Tree in the centre of the Lions’ Pond.
Australian Silk Oak: There is only one specimen of this tree in the gardens, on the lower southernmost area (Atlantic Island Bed). Its springtime flowering is spectacular with orange and red flowers producing copious amounts of nectar which attracts bees and birds. Canary Island Date Palm: The common palm of Gibraltar is a native of the Canary Islands. It has long fronds and orange, inedible dates. Washingtonia: Large, fan-leaved palm originates from the deserts of North America. One of the two large specimens in the Dell has retained its ‘petticoat’ of old leaves.
Lord Howe Island Palm: Two of these attractive palms grow in the Dell above the bridge. They were reputedly donated to the gardens as young plants by an elderly lady the day she was evacuated in 1941, during the Second World War. Other species of palm are being added to the garden’s collection.
Hibiscus: Also known as ‘Rose of China’, many attractive varieties of this tropical shrub grow in the gardens, notably in the Hibiscus Bed and in the Dell where there are a number of especially beautiful large-flowered forms. The Hibiscus bed also holds other species of Hibiscus, including the Swamp Mallow Hibiscus and the Fringed Hibiscus, as well as other members of the Hibiscus, or Mallow Family.
Bougainvillea: Named after French explorer Louis de Bougainville, these showy scramblers come from tropical South America. Of the various varieties growing in the gardens, the purple and deep red are the most spectacular, especially during their main flowering period in summer. The colour is provided by modified leaves called bracts, while the white flowers are small and insignificant.
Daisies: There are numerous members of this family in the gardens. The small bright blue flowers with yellow centres are Felicia from southern Africa. All-yellow daisies are Euryops, which are also South African. Also from that region are the grey-leaved squat Gazania and the shrubbier Arctotis (often with orange flowers). Rounded bushes with white flowers with yellow centres in early spring are the Canary Island daisies. A climbing daisy and a tree daisy, from Mexico, can also be seen.
Climbers, creepers and scramblers: A number of other climbers, creepers and scramblers are common in the gardens, often shaped into hedges. With bright orange tubular flowers is the Cape Honeysuckle, from South Africa. Also South African is the pale blue flowered Leadwort. There is a Chinese Wisteria over the upper fountain in the Dell, while on the bridge grow Bougainvillea, Lantana and Wisteria as well as Golden Chalice and the Australian Native Wisteria. Scattered about the gardens are a number of honeysuckle, Jasmine and Jessamine or ‘Dama de Noche’, with its intense scent in summer evenings.
Shrubs and bulbs: Some of the more obvious shrubs of the gardens include Oleanders, with pink, white or yellowish flowers in summer, the Blue Butterfly Bush with pale blue flowers in late winter and the native Shrubby Scorpion Vetch with sweet-scented bright yellow flowers in late winter and early spring. One traditional plant of the Alameda which has been re-planted in various areas is the Heliotrope which has pale blue flowers and an overpowering cherry-pie scent. The Bugloss is another shrub with attractive blue flowers. In late summer the pink trumpets of the Bella Donna Lilies appear from the dry ground. In winter and spring dark green clusters of leaves show instead. Agapanthus with blue flowers and Antholyza aethiopica, with orange flowers are another two southern African bulbous plants of the Alameda.
Pelargoniums: Commonly known as geraniums, these plants, which mainly originate in South Africa do well in Gibraltar’s similar climate. A number of cultivated varieties grow around the gardens, while true species can be seen in certain areas. These include the attractive Oak-leaved Pelargonium and other species with scented leaves.
Succulents: Several beds are dedicated to succulents from the dry regions of the world. Many plant families have developed some form of succulent habit. The best represented in The Alameda include: Aloes: Mainly southern African and have spikes of tubular, often red flowers. These are pollinated by sunbirds in Africa and also attract birds in Gibraltar to feed on their copious nectar. The most common is the Tree Aloe which flowers in winter.
Cacti: Almost exclusively American and include the pad-like Opuntia, the columnar species like Cleistocactus jujuyensis, the cushion-like Echinocactus grusonii and the climbing species with large night-opening flowers like Hylacereus undatus candelabrum.
Euphorbias: or spurges have many forms, including ones, like Euphorbia candelabrum that resemble columnar cacti. Other forms to be seen on the main succulent bed are represented by, for example, Euphorbia stenoclada and E. milii hislopii. The small succulent bed near the Theatre is dedicated to plants of the Sonoran Desert in North America.
Gibraltar and Mediterranean: Wild plants are to be found in locations throughout the gardens, with some beds being particularly dedicated to them. Gibraltar plants to be seen include the Gibraltar Candytuft, the Gibraltar Restharrow and the very rare Gibraltar Campion. The Mediterranean Bed in particular has typical species including lavenders and Cistus Sun Roses, as well as leguminous shrubs and bulbous or rhizomatous plants like the Paper-white Narcissus, Giant Squill and Asphodels.
Other beds: Some of the other beds are dedicated to the plants of California, Australia, South Africa, and the Canary Islands, regions with a climate similar to Gibraltar’s. The Family Beds display plants according to selected plant families.
Wildlife in the Gardens: Herbicides and pesticides are not generally used in the Alameda, and so there is a rich wildlife. Bird species nesting within the gardens include Sardinian Warbler, Blackcap, Blackbird, Robin, Greenfinch, Serin and Wren. Winter additions include Grey and White Wagtail, Chifchaff, Black Redstart, Chaffinch, Short-toed Tree-creeper and occasionally Kingfisher, while notable birds of passage periods are Hoopoe, Redstart, Woodchat Shrike and flycatchers. Kestrel (throughout the year) and Booted Eagle (in winter) regularly hunt in the grounds. Reptiles include the Moorish Gecko, Iberian Wall Lizard, Amphisbaenian and the harmless Horseshoe Whip Snake. Of the bats, the Pipistrelle is the commonest (often seen during the day), while Schreiber’s Bat and the European Free-tailed Bat can also be seen. The Alameda Gardens are peat-free. Coconut fibre and our own composted material is used in order not to foster the destruction of peat bogs in northern Europe, which are important wildlife habitats.
Gibraltar Nature Reserve, Upper Rock
Stand on top of the Rock and you feel as if you were on top of the world. Europe is at your feet. Africa fills one horizon, while the gates to the Mediterranean and the Atlantic are on either side. The journey to the top of the Rock rewards you with a truly breath-taking view. From a height of 1400 feet (426m) you will see the African coastline, where the waters of the Atlantic meet the Mediterranean, Spain’s Costa del Sol and a panoramic view of the city far below, the quays, marinas and bays.
This green area of Gibraltar is home to many of its attractions and is therefore a main highlight for the visitor with an interest in visiting the major attractions to marvel at the fantastic views, and for ramblers wanting to walk through its nature trails. No unauthorised private vehicles are permitted in the Reserve. However, one may visit as a pedestrian, taking a lift on the Cable Car, or by taking a guided taxi or bus tour. Historically, it is likely that the original vegetation found throughout the Upper Rock was woodland and this was destroyed over the centuries by tree felling and extensive goat grazing. Following the removal of goats during the 19th century, maquis or mattoral became the dominant habitat type on the Upper Rock.
The Gibraltar Nature Reserve has evolved and developed significantly since the Upper Rock was officially designated as a Reserve in 1993. As part of the continued effort to further protect biodiversity and natural habitats in Gibraltar, the then Upper Rock Nature Reserve was rebranded and its size extended in 2013 to include new areas that would further help protect important habitats and species. The British Garrison has historically maintained a strong presence on the Upper Rock, and before WWII, defensive batteries were constructed on most promontories on the Rock for the protection of ‘Fortress Gibraltar’.
In 1938 the Rock’s defences were strengthened against the possibility of a land attack, particularly those facing north. Defensive guns can still be seen at Princess Caroline’s and Princess Amelia’s Batteries. Large 9.2 inch guns were also placed at the southern end of the Rock to defend the Strait of Gibraltar. These still stand at O’Hara’s and Lord Airey’s Batteries. Numerous anti-aircraft batteries and searchlight emplacements were also built during this time and these can still be found in different parts of the Upper Rock. On the advent of WWII, this area became a total exclusion zone to the resident population. It was demarcated by an ‘unclimbable fence’. Soon after the war, the Upper Rock was again opened to the public, but only during daylight hours.
The Gibraltar Nature Reserve is also renowned for its unique trails that meander through the extent of the Reserve. These combine the Nature Reserve’s natural beauty and stunning views with some sites of historic interest that do not feature widely as part of the more mainstream ‘Rock tours’. Notable trails include Mediterranean Steps, Inglis Way, Royal Anglian Way and Douglas Path. Four trail networks have been developed, namely the ‘Nature Lover’, the ‘History Buff’, the ‘Thrill seeker’ and the ‘Monkey trail’. Each trail has its own logo to help guide the user. As part of the revamped trail network a new Gibraltar Nature Reserve Application (GNR App) has been developed which is available on iTunes and Android platforms.
Gorham’s Cave Complex World Heritage Site and Tours
The Gorham’s Cave Complex is the name given to the area covering some 28 hectares on the eastside of Gibraltar from sea level to the top of the Rock. In July 2016, it was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its exceptional testimony to the occupation, cultural traditions and material culture of Neanderthal and early modern human populations through a period spanning approximately 120,000 years. The striking cluster of sea level caves contain archaeological deposits that provide evidence of Neanderthal and early modern human occupation of Gibraltar, and the landscape setting and natural species which assist in presenting the natural resources and environmental context, including climatic conditions, of Neanderthal life. The Gibraltar Nature Reserve forms part of the buffer zone to the WH site and together they represent over 40% of the territory of Gibraltar.
Gibraltar has a longstanding association with the Neanderthals. The first complete skull was found and presented to the Gibraltar Scientific Society by Lieutenant Edmund Flint of the Royal Artillery in 1848 – eight years before the famed remains found in the Neander Valley near Dusseldorf in Germany, which gives its name to these people. A second skull – the Devil’s Tower Child – was found in Gibraltar in 1926.
The Gorham’s Cave Complex is of major significance in understanding the global story of human evolution and adaptation. Gorham’s and Vanguard Caves have been archaeologically excavated over the past 26 years, and results have shown that Gibraltar was last refuge for the Neanderthals around 32,000 years ago.. An international, multi-disciplinary research project has revealed the vital importance of the site in our understanding of a critical juncture in human evolution and of the Neanderthals in particular. Now there is a wealth of information on where and how the Neanderthals and early modern humans lived and behaved, what plants, birds and animals they were familiar with and ate, where they acquired materials for their tools and what their environment was like. There is evidence of their complex social behaviour, dress and unique elements including a rock engraving carved by the Neanderthals in Gorham’s Cave, which indicate their ability for abstract thought.
TOURS OF GORHAM’S CAVE
Gorham’s and Vanguard Caves are spectacularly sited on the eastern shore of Gibraltar, and visiting them is a very memorable experience. However, they are moderately difficult/difficult to access on foot. No visits are allowed within 48 hours of bad weather, and visits may have to be postponed at short notice if the weather is adverse.
Areas of the sea cave complex that can be visited and numbers of visitors allowed may vary from time to time. The standard tour, for up to 5 people, is to the entrance of Gorham’s Cave, but not inside, in order to protect the fragile archaeological deposits. All visits must be escorted by guides from the Gibraltar National Museum.
Lower St Michael’s Cave
Whilst the upper section of St Michael’s Cave has been known for over 2000 years and used for various purposes such as a hospital during World War II, it was only in 1942 that Lower St Michael’s Cave was discovered – accidentally by the sappers whilst driving a tunnel into the lower reaches to provide a secondary exit. A cavern was discovered, with several chambers, which may have been sealed for 20,000 years.
The cavern is of extraordinary beauty, glimmering with white, grey and red stalactite columns, resembling a cathedral with pulpit, chancel and organ pipes. This extraordinary beautiful cavern is remarkable for three reasons: the size of the main chambers, the profusion and variety of calcite formations, and last but not least – a lake of crystal clear water, nearly forty yards long estimated to hold 45,000 gallons.
Today there are organised tours into Lower St Michael’s Cave available to the general public. The tour normally lasts around three hours. However, due to the fact that there is some scrambling and minor climbing with ropes involved, duration times may vary. The cave is totally in its original natural state (although it is fully lit). One of the sites visited during this tour is a beautiful underground lake and fortunately for the visitor, who will no doubt not want to forget this wonderful speleological experience, photography is permitted.
Mediterranean Steps
Mediterranean Steps is a steep, at times arduous, walk and is not for people without a head for heights. Early mornings are usually preferable, but during the summer months a late afternoon walk will provide the visitor with plenty of much-needed shade. The area is particularly appealing during the spring, when the visitor is greeted by an interesting and very beautiful array of flowers. Mediterranean Steps take the walker from Jews’ Gate on the southern end of the Nature Reserve at 180m above sea level, up towards O’Hara’s Battery at 419m, close to the summit of the Rock.
The path runs mainly along the eastern side of the Rock, an area that is comprised primarily of cliffs and low Mediterranean scrub. The walk starts beside Jew’s Gate Cemetery, leading south through some dense maquis, which gradually opens out, from which the walker is afforded a spectacular view of North Africa across the Strait. From here, we continue along a narrow path that borders along the edge of cliffs and at this point we begin to appreciate the silence and serenity that this path has to offer, and the cries of the yellow-legged gulls are frequently all that can be heard. Carrying on north along this path past the steps leading upwards, we begin to ascend a steep flight of steps that leads to the Goat’s Hair Twin Caves – it is amazing to consider that these caves, were once at sea level! Excavations and research work indicate that prehistoric people once lived on the Rock and inhabited many of our caves, including those found on Mediterranean Steps which is in the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Continuing the climb, we reach a building that was constructed by the military during WWII. Here, we finish the first flight of steps, and commence a path that leads through a small tunnel and on towards some WWII fortifications.
We now reach a platform that offers the visitor a unique view northwards. The path winds its way upward, and starts to get steeper. Looking up towards the top of the Rock, we can now see the zig-zagging stairway that hugs the cliff and leads to the end of the walk. Here, we also encounter another set of WWII fortifications. Following the track, the walker arrives at the base of the cliff, where the final flight of steps subjects the visitor to a last, strenuous effort in order to reach the summit.
Halfway up these steps we find Spider Cave, a small hollow that was used during WWII. At the summit immediately to the south lies Lord Airey’s and O’Hara’s Batteries two 9.2 inch guns, found at these emplacements installed at these sites during WWII, and were last fired by the Royal Gibraltar Regiment in 1972. This is where the walk ends, one can then either retrace their steps, or preferably follow the road down to St. Michael’s Cave or northbound towards Prince Philip’s Arch.
Nature Trails
The Gibraltar Nature Reserve, particularly its Upper Rock area, is renowned for its unique trails that meander through the extent of the Reserve. These combine the Nature Reserve’s natural beauty and stunning views with some sites of historic interest that do not feature widely as part of the more mainstream ‘Rock tours’. Notable trails include Mediterranean Steps, Inglis Way, Royal Anglian Way and Douglas Path. One of the key objectives of this plan is to diversify the products available within the Gibraltar Nature Reserve.
In order to help meet this requirement, a thematic trail network approach has been adopted. Different trails therefore cater for different visitor expectations and abilities. In addition, the trails are intersected by ‘trail nodes’ which correspond to some of the main attractions within the Reserve such as Jews’ Gate, the Moorish Castle and St. Michael’s Cave. Four trail networks have been developed namely the ‘Nature Lover’, the ‘History Buff’, the ‘Thrill Seeker’ and the ‘Monkey Trail’. Each trail has its own logo to help guide the user. As part of the revamped trail network a new Gibraltar Nature Reserve Application (GNR App) has been developed which is available on iTunes and Android platforms.
Outdoor interpretation and green area at Europa Point
A new outdoor interpretation and green area has recently opened at Europa Point at the former site of ‘Le Farol’ outlet. The location has been transformed into an open leisure area whilst the existing magazine on the site displays panels with information on the heritage and wildlife both of Europa Point and the nearby Gorham’s Cave Complex World Heritage site. There are paths throughout the site as well as benches, affording magnificent views across the Strait. Furthermore, flora of the area have been implemented and will shortly be supplemented with other hardy local species currently being grown off-site and in the surrounds.
St Michael’s Cave
St Michael’s Cave was long believed to be bottomless. This probably gave birth to the story that the Rock of Gibraltar was linked to the Africa by a subterranean passage under the Strait of Gibraltar. The famous macaques were said to have come to Gibraltar through this subterranean passage. Pomponious Mela, one of the earliest geographers who lived about the beginning of the Christian era, spoke about the cave in his writings.
It was at one time believed that in 1704 Spanish troops spent a night in the cave after climbing the precipitous east face of the Rock. Another story about the cave recounts how a Colonel Mitchell and another officer were said to have descended into the cave at some unspecified date before 1840 and were never seen again. During WWII the cave was prepared as an emergency hospital, but was never used as such. The cave is open to visitors and makes a unique auditorium for concerts, ballet and drama.
It has been in use as a theatre since the early sixties with capacity for 600 persons. At some period during the history of this cave, part of a stalagmite became too heavy on one side and fell, possibly thousands of years ago. It now lies on its side at the far end of the main chamber, cemented through the years by nature to the floor of the cave. In 1972 a slice was cut off from the top end which revealed the interior structure of the stalagmite in a most dramatic fashion.
The Great East-side Sand Slopes and former Water Catchments
A brief history
The Great Eastside Sand Slopes form an extensive area (approximately 45 hectares) of largely consolidated windblown sands that extend from above Sandy Bay in the south to Catalan Bay to the North. These sands, which contain a high percentage of uniform quartz grains, originated outside Gibraltar, since there are almost no quartz-bearing strata on the Rock. The sand slope was formed during the Quaternary period, when the area to the east was a dry sandy plain and wind action deposited the sand upon existing scree breccias and boulder conglomerate (Rose & Rosenbaum, 1991). At one time, the Talus slopes to the north and south, together with the Sand Slopes, formed one contiguous mass. However, the Catalan and Sandy Bay quarries, opened by the Admiralty in 1895 to provide material for the Dockyard extensions, isolated the Eastside Sand Slopes from the Talus slopes. The talus extremities, located below the major cliff faces – namely Spyglass and Rock Gun – seem to have accumulated the largest quantity of rock boulder material. This has formed the conglomerate scree breccias but is still covered by a sandy layer. The central portion, where the Eastside Sand Slopes are located, has undergone less rock deposition from above, but has a greater accumulation of windblown sands, substantially differentiating this geological structure from the adjacent Talus slopes. Drawings from the 1800s depicting Catalan Bay show that the Sand Slope was almost devoid of vegetation and this confirms the presence of goats and grazing activity. In 1903, the City’s Chief Engineer came up with a plan to cover the 10 acre slope with corrugated iron sheets to collect potable water. This resulted in most of the Sand Slope habitat being lost and with it, a number of plant and animal species including the Black Wheatear (Oenanthe leucura) which probably relied on this habitat.
The water catchments were deemed obsolete in 1991 with the advent of desalination plants in Gibraltar, thus promulgating their removal and restoration of the habitat in the 1990s. The restoration process was extremely laborious and consisted of the removal of the corrugated iron sheets, followed by the installation of a biodegradable mesh to stabilise the slope. A reseeding programme followed thereafter, using native grasses and shrubs in close consultation with the GONHS. This was carried out by experts from the Gibraltar Botanic Gardens. In addition to the removal of the water catchment and the reseeding of the slopes, a complex network of strong rockfall protection fencing was installed.
World Heritage Status
The Gorham’s Cave Complex is the name given to the area covering some 28 hectares on the eastside of Gibraltar from sea level to the top of the Rock. In July 2016, it was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its exceptional testimony to the occupation, cultural traditions and material culture of Neanderthal and early modern human populations through a period spanning approximately 120,000 years. The striking cluster of sea level caves contain archaeological deposits that provide evidence of Neanderthal and early modern human occupation of Gibraltar, and the landscape setting and natural species which assist in presenting the natural resources and environmental context, including climatic conditions, of Neanderthal life. The Gibraltar Nature Reserve, including the Great Eastside Sand Slopes, form part of the buffer zone to the World Heritage site and together they represent over 40% of the territory of Gibraltar.
Water Catchments – A colossal feat of engineering
The first catchment area of this type (an entirely original idea conceived by the then City Engineer of Gibraltar) was constructed in 1903 on the sand slopes of the east side of the Rock, which has an average inclination of 1½ to 1. These slopes had big boulders embedded in them, which were blasted away, the surface trimmed as even as possible and a channel and footpath constructed at the lower perimeter of the collecting area. Into these trimmed sand slopes timber piles 91500mm x 150mm x 40mm) were driven their full length, to these a timber framing of purlins (75mm x 75mm x 4500mm) and rafters (75mm x 75mm x 2400mm) were nailed and on these, corrugated galvanised iron sheets 2400mm x 900mm were secured by means of drive-screws all round their edges. All timbers had been previously treated with creosote forced in at a pressure of 170 lbs per square inch.
Roughly, each hectare covered, took: 5928 rafters, 1112 purlins, 1161 piles; 5928 sheets, 2920 kgs of screws and 850 kgs of washers.
Channels: The collecting channels were designed to convey a maximum of 102 mm of rain per hour on an area of about 14.97 hectares (this being the area available for eventual conversion into catchments). The access footpaths along the channels were incorporated in the design to act as a relief channel fed by an overflow system and itself overflowing through pipes down to sea. The main channel in the east west tunnel had a valve via which water could be diverted into a natural fissure and eventually down to the sea. Water from the first rains, which washed the dirt from the catchments, was flushed away in this manner.
Reservoirs: Between 1911 and 1914 reservoir No 5, of 9,091 cubic metres capacity, was excavated from the rock by means of enlarging a tunnel driven parallel to the channel tunnel and some 7.6 metres below it. The tunnel was enlarged on either side to form a chamber some 12.2 metres high 13.1 metres wide and 121.9 metres in length. After the excavation works were completed and all loose rocks removed, the floor was concreted in two layers, a 150 mm levelling layer of mass concrete followed by a 150 mm slab of 1:2:4 concrete using Portland cement and 35mm stone as coarse aggregate. The walls were constructed using two skins each of 114 mm space between the back wall and the rock face was filled with mass concrete and the 150 mm cavity filled with a Portland cement, 1:1 mortar mixed with 5% water proofing agent. The floor received a 50 mm Portland cement, 1:1 mortar screed and finally rendered with a 19 mm layer containing 5% of water proofing agent. The walls were cement plastered in 3 coats using a 3:1, 2:1 and 1:1 with 5% water proofing agent mix. The last layer of wall plaster and floor render was steel trowelled. Nothing was done to the roof as the rock over the span used is self-supporting.
The catchment area was increased by a further 5.66 hectares and, in 1928, a further reservoir (No 6) was constructed similar to reservoir No 5, but of half its length and with a capacity of 4,545 cubic metres. Each reservoir is connected to the main channel by means of large diameter pipes with valves to control the entry of water into them. They are now also connected to the pumping mains conveying water from other sources. Between 1928 and 1945 four more reservoirs (Nos 7 to 10) were excavated from the rock adding a further 18,181 cubic metres to the storage capacity. It is interesting to note that reservoir No 10, which had been excavated but not completed at the time of World War II, contained a barracks built to house a detachment of the “Black Watch” regiment under bombproof conditions. The construction of these reservoirs follow the original pattern except that they are offset from the pilot tunnel thus providing access to their supply mains. Outlet valves for supply and cleansing are operated from within the reservoirs by means of long spindled hand wheels.
Each reservoir has an overflow onto the pilot tunnel and via the tunnel into the natural fissure. The last reservoirs (Nos 11 and 12) were constructed 1958-1961 at a lower level, reached from the east side, opposite Catalan Bay. These were constructed to receive rain from a further extension of 4.05 hectares of catchment at a lower level on the east side slopes. These brought up the total number of potable water reservoirs to 12 plus the Moorish Castle reservoir providing a total storage capacity of some 72,727 cubic metres.
